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Author Topic: Oak Drum Drying  (Read 531 times)
Stephen Wiley
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« on: January 21, 2009, 08:58:25 PM »

Fell a red oak for a client last year; he saved several four foot pieces to make a drum from.

He bored center out of 24" diameter round leaving a four inch rind.  Another 'wood worker' advised him to pack center with wet chips (changing them every two weeks) and allow for air drying.

I examined his first attempt yesterday and the rind split on both sides.

I told him that I would have treated the ends and waited two years before boring.  I also suggested that if he desires another try to maybe try kiln drying.

Anyone attempt drum making before?
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Stevem
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« Reply #1 on: January 21, 2009, 10:17:50 PM »

Never tried making a drum but I'd think its going to crack no matter how you dried it.  The sap wood is going to shrink more than the heart so if he left both there'd really be a strain between the layers.

Perhaps hollowing it out and then cutting it in half (to be glued together after it dried) and then strapping the halves together (steel strapping on the bark) and use wedges to keep the straps tight.  No steel on the oak or it would stain.
Might even use a skill saw and make some relief cuts inside.

Sounds like a real chalange!
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Stevem
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mike p
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« Reply #2 on: January 23, 2009, 07:18:28 PM »

if you cut the log on a 45 degree angle like we do for plackes & deer mounts ,it rairely splitscouse the cells are not cut straight across
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« Reply #3 on: January 24, 2009, 02:03:20 AM »


There's always PEG but that spendy stuff

Just read where an alcohol soak is used by wood turners.  The alcohol displaces the water and will dry without cracking, sometimes.  Not drinking alcohol
And you can reuse the alcohol again.  But there was a caution about having both sap wood and heart wood
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Stevem
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mike p
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« Reply #4 on: January 24, 2009, 02:33:11 PM »

i read some were that some turners turn to close to finish then soak submereged bowl  or what ever overnight in 1/2 water & 1/2 dishwashing liguid for 24 hours then let it drip dry for 3 or4 hours then remount & finish turning with no cracks
i plan on trying this when the temps go above freeseing
apparently the glycol in the soap replaces the water in wood
anyone know about this soaking
might work on your discs
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« Reply #5 on: January 24, 2009, 09:33:56 PM »

Mike P, that is what I use to do when making clock faces, cut the slab at a 45 degree angle to the log, very few ever cracked.
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