Sawmill and Timber

Sawmills and Sawing => Bandsaw Mills => Topic started by: Bodog on December 18, 2017, 02:33:49 PM

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Title: Wood mizer LT30
Post by: Bodog on December 18, 2017, 02:33:49 PM
I have an older wood mizer LT 30 . Does anyone got the wiring diagram for this saw . It has a kohler K341 on it with a 30 amp stator. Someone had a different motor on it than the orginal and was doing everything manual. It has a motor for raising the head and one for feeding the saw. no hydraulics.   Help if you can. Best Regards
Title: Re: Wood mizer LT30
Post by: furu on December 18, 2017, 02:50:21 PM
Can't help you but welcome to the Sawmill and Timber forum
Title: Re: Wood mizer LT30
Post by: Ox on December 18, 2017, 05:00:29 PM
Welcome to the forum!  Have you tried Woodmizer themselves?  I've heard good things about their willingness to help folks, even with their older mills.  It's at least a place to start.  They'll probably ask you for a serial number I would imagine, but maybe not.  Maybe they can date it from what it's got on it for peripherals.
Title: Re: Wood mizer LT30
Post by: drobertson on December 18, 2017, 08:16:46 PM
No help but best regards, I feel your pain,. I know of one ole timer, that has a 30 but he went electric three phase with a generator, sawed tons, (tons) by himself, logging, dragging, loading, sawing,  hauling, and splitting the plunders, really amazing, but I know for a fact that 30 did the job.. so, hold fast, you will find a way.
Title: Re: Wood mizer LT30
Post by: joasis on December 19, 2017, 06:01:04 AM
There isn't anything "magical" about wiring, especially in that application.

You can literally "reverse" the path and by elimination, see what every function can do. Like the elevation motor.....set up a 12 volt battery, and I know this may sound ridiculous, but it is how I taught basic electrical application on aircraft, and use a wooden block, and set 2 machine screws with wing nuts if you have them, or just alligator clips....have a red ( + ) and a black ( - ), and then start checking components.

Take the elevation motor, which may be a simple 2 wire hook up, and make some leads, and check by holding to the terminals you have made. That is testing. If the motor has more then 2 wires, one may be a ground to frame, and each of the other leads may be direction. Black is typically a ground, but not always. It can be a floating ground, and that is why you use alligator clips...to just "touch wires to terminals" to test what you are doing and not risk burning something. Also why we use a battery to test, instead of a charger, or transformer. Pure direct current.

Now, to figure out the switches, use an old trailer tail light, or tag light lamp, and attach it to the board, and make sure it is grounded back to the black. Then you can use it to determine if the how the switch works, and if you had 2 lights, set it up so you can flip the switch and see each direction the + side puts out to run the elevation motor. 

The motor that feeds the head may have a rheostat, and that component is tested using a light bulb also. The speed of the motor is dictated by the voltage allowed through the rheostat, and thus, if the switch is working, the bulb will be bright to dim to off as you rotate the speed control.

You can also see any of these functions by the use of a volt/ohm meter, a cheap one costs $5 and is suited to simple tasks like this. It isn't like you are looking at ballast resistors and diodes and such.

The stator wire from the motor probably means there is an internal voltage regulator, so it is a simple, one wire hook up to battery. You should have 13 - 15 volts on a volt meter if it is running correctly. Or a simple 12 volt light will shine brightly when the engine is running, if it is producing power, and be less bright when just off the battery.

Hope this tutorial helps a bit.
Title: Re: Wood mizer LT30
Post by: Ox on December 19, 2017, 08:59:20 AM
Nice, simple write up.  8)