Sawmill and Timber
Sawmills and Sawing => Bandsaw Mills => Topic started by: furu on February 19, 2019, 07:21:08 PM
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I have been trying to find an old post that addressed this subject.
It may not have even been on this site and could have been elsewhere.
Seemed to remember that mountainlake had some real good comments supporting his length.
41 inches seems to stick (no pun intended) in my mind.
Bottom line is I am interested in what length sticker you use and why.
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Mine are 42 inches long, why? The pallets I made are 40” wide and this allows a little extra on each side
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Four foot is the average width of a stickered lumber pile. I have used several machines with forks of different lengths and I will say that longer is not handy and shorter than 42" is not either. But 42 is not good for the std. 48" pile. So I have been cutting sticks 52" for years. You see that if you do ?x10" you need 50". In a perfect world that stick is not supposed to protrude and catch water and wick it in the stack. Things that look simple never are and there is more to stickering lumber than most think.
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I use 42" stickers. all my skids have been acquired from equipment deliveries from work so they range from 30 to 72 wide. I try not to stack wider than 42" because thats what my tractor can reasonably handle. I cannot pickup the 72" skids unless I only stack lumber on one side.
I need a bigger tractor.
42 really works best for me. I use 48" skids most of the time. that keeps the lumber and stickers inside the edges so if I bump the skid when loading I do not damage the lumber or push the pile over.
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I must make my own pallets; 8,10,12,14,16,18'. all48". Hardwood, 1x top and bottom on 2x4 2' on center. This way there is never any measuring anything, the sticks go over the 2x4 and grade hardwood , sticks on 12 inch center in between by eye. Always know the lengths just by looking.
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Four foot is the average width of a stickered lumber pile. I have used several machines with forks of different lengths and I will say that longer is not handy and shorter than 42" is not either. But 42 is not good for the std. 48" pile. So I have been cutting sticks 52" for years. You see that if you do ?x10" you need 50". In a perfect world that stick is not supposed to protrude and catch water and wick it in the stack. Things that look simple never are and there is more to stickering lumber than most think.
So if the stickers aren't supposed to protrude past the edges of the lumber why do you cut your stickers 4 inches wider than the pile?
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I use 42" stickers. all my skids have been acquired from equipment deliveries from work so they range from 30 to 72 wide. I try not to stack wider than 42" because thats what my tractor can reasonably handle. I cannot pickup the 72" skids unless I only stack lumber on one side.
I need a bigger tractor.
42 really works best for me. I use 48" skids most of the time. that keeps the lumber and stickers inside the edges so if I bump the skid when loading I do not damage the lumber or push the pile over.
I am the same as far as how much my tractor will lift and move comfortably . What tractor do you have? I've a 37hp Kubota.
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I am the same as far as how much my tractor will lift and move comfortably . What tractor do you have? I've a 37hp Kubota.
I have Kubota L2800 28 hp.
Unfortunately it has the super short wheel base so I have the lift capacity but without some serious counterweight I can't keep the back end on the ground.
I miss by B8200 it was perfect size for around the yard. The 2800 is to big to drive across the yard most of the year. Unfortunately I want a small one back and then a slightly larger one.
I keep thinking a mini excavator at the mill would be the best for log handling then something else for moving piles.
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I have Kubota L2800 28 hp.
Unfortunately it has the super short wheel base so I have the lift capacity but without some serious counterweight I can't keep the back end on the ground.
I miss by B8200 it was perfect size for around the yard. The 2800 is to big to drive across the yard most of the year. Unfortunately I want a small one back and then a slightly larger one.
I keep thinking a mini excavator at the mill would be the best for log handling then something else for moving piles.
I drive across my yard all the time with no real negative effects as long as I don't turn sharply, I have the R1 tires on it which are a bit more forgiving than AG tires, but I lose a little traction in some circumstances.
If I need a lot of counter weight I'll hook up my 72' flail mower, heaviest thing I have. And I need to on occasion for some larger logs.
I would love a mini excavator but I'm not sure about using it to move logs around the mill though. I have a QR loader with a bucket, forks, and a grapple, does most everything I need.
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Mine has the skinny tires on it. And even though I live on a hill my yard is a swamp. I will run my box blade for ballast. or if I am rally desperate the snowblower.
Tires are loaded but the shorter wheelbase causes alot more moment and more likely to lift the rear.
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My 48" wide drying piles will be 50" if the board are 10" wide plus it is faster with a few extra inches.
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I have the R1 tires on it which are a bit more forgiving than AG tires, but I lose a little traction in some circumstances.
But... R1 is the ag tire - V bars, agriculture tread
R4 is the industrial tread
R2 is the deep V bars, like rice paddy and mud tires, look like an ag tire on steroids, very aggressive
R3 is turf tire tread like for golf courses and such
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But... R1 is the ag tire - V bars, agriculture tread
R4 is the industrial tread
R2 is the deep V bars, like rice paddy and mud tires, look like an ag tire on steroids, very aggressive
R3 is turf tire tread like for golf courses and such
Yep, My bad.. I have the R4 industrial tires..
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:) No harm, no foul.
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:) No harm, no foul.
Gotta keep me honest man! Thanks!
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I would say that it would depend on your pallets...
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Mine are only 32" because that gives me room in my kiln to walk around, I used to have 6 footers for my trailer for lumber delivery but managing 2 different lengths got too troublesome. 32 for everything now.
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Lumber piles are about four feet wide and the stickers are usually 50-52 inches depending on what salvage boards we are cutting up, if too short or broken, we just splice some side by side and overlapping to do the job.
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I think the species and width of the sticker is just as important as the length. I like to make them of dry poplar, and usually about one x one inch thick. Place them about 12 inches apart on good lumber, making sure they line up over each other, supported on the bottom as well. Mine were 52 inches wide. My forks were 48 inches long, and I could make shorter, wider stacks, easier to sort through later if necessary. Tall stacks are a pain in the ass, if boards split in the middle. I've heard of green stickers leaching out on drying hardwood stacks, making mold and stains. It's kind of a learn as your go process, do what works best for you in the long run..
My two cents.
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I've done a lot of reading on the subject of sticker thickness, now not to say others have found different things, but for the last three generations we've always sawed stickers at 3/8's inch thick, done this for hundreds of thousands of board feet of lumber maybe even millions of board feet, over the last 9 decades, never once had an issue, but we only saw hardwood lumber, nothing soft.
Thinner stickers make shorter lumber piles and take up less space by having more lumber per pile verses using thicker stickers.
Spacing has more to do with how tall your piles are going to be, or how many piles your going to stack one on top of each other than anything else. The higher your going to pile the lumber, the closer your going to want to place the stickers in order to keep your lumber straight.
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thinner sticker equated to less air flow which leads to lumber damage no matter the species of lumber. not recommended to be less than 3/4'' thick.
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Yep, I cut all my stickers 3/4 thick, I want max airflow.