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Author Topic: Woodmizer question(s)  (Read 13232 times)

Offline delvis_02

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Woodmizer question(s)
« on: June 17, 2012, 12:25:58 AM »
Hello there,  I am new to the forum and joined to ask a few questions and answer some if I can.  My father and I have been sawing together since 2007 and he sawed on his circular mill for 30 years or so before that, and his father sawed as long or longer on the same mill.  I bought a new Timber Harvester in April of 2007 and am pretty sure my mill had to be one of the last they made before they closed shop.  I was disappointed to say the least to have invested what was a lot of money for me in a piece of equipment made by a company that could no longer answer any questions I might have.  We made the mill work and when everything was in alingment, it would cut as well as anything, but I decided I wanted something more portable.  Last fall we were able to find a buyer for the mill and ordered a new Woo-Mizer LT40HD.  I can't say enough good about Wood-Mizer.  I am very happy and we have cut close to 50,000 feet since last November cutting part time.

I have a couple questions for any other Wood-Mizers ownersout there.  I have been frustrated with the amount of blade diving I get when I saw knotty pine.  I am using WM blades, .045, 7/8 pitch, 7degree rake.  The 10 degree blades are much worse in the knots but seem to cut fine in clear wood.  Our mill has a 38 horse Kohler on it.  We try dillegently to make sure everything is kept in alingment to avoid misalingment being the cause of wavy lumber.  Am I just sawing too fast or is there something I have not considered?  My next question concerns the bandwheel belts but I will make a new post for that.  Thank you for any advice/help you may have.  Mike

















"I can saw it smaller all day long, I can't saw it bigger!"

Offline Carl Middleton

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Re: Woodmizer question(s)
« Reply #1 on: June 17, 2012, 06:14:12 AM »
Welcome Mike, I have the same mill and sawed some knoty pine just yesterday. I use the 7 degree blades and lots of water with a little pinesol added to it. After cutting off the slabs I drop the blade about an inch make another cut then I sawing strait. Slow the rate down a little and up the tension on the blade. Now spruce is another story. Just roll them back in the woods. ;D

Offline Stevem

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Re: Woodmizer question(s)
« Reply #2 on: June 17, 2012, 10:26:08 AM »
I can't offer any help on your mizer but I can welcome you to the forum.  Hope you enjoy our little world.  We've got some good sources for mizer info here.
Stevem
Because you can doesn't mean you should!

Offline Kirk Allen

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Re: Woodmizer question(s)
« Reply #3 on: June 18, 2012, 08:15:56 AM »
Pretty much same input from me as what Carl said.  I have found the more pine-sole/water running the better.  As soon as the pitch builds up the waves begin.

I have cut quite a bit of Spruce and can only say dont expect more than about 300BF before the waves start.  Blades have to be sharp and kept that way for that stuff.

I just finished about 3000bf of white pine right before my rib injury and all went well with only 4 blades used.  Once the waves showed their ugly face I changed blades. 

And Welcome to the forum! 
Integrity is doing the right thing when no one is watching!

Offline Stevem

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Re: Woodmizer question(s)
« Reply #4 on: June 18, 2012, 09:37:49 AM »
Don't know about yous guys spruce but Sitka spruce knots will cause a chain saw to make sparks.  Causes a Mobile Dem. main saw blade to rise up and leave uncut wood.  Limb wood makes really good fire wood as opposed to the wood itself.
Stevem
Because you can doesn't mean you should!

Offline Cypress Man

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Re: Woodmizer question(s)
« Reply #5 on: February 02, 2014, 01:11:48 PM »
I would call Woodmizer and see what blade they would suggest using.  i would try a .050 or .055 thickness blade which should give a much straighter cut in knotty material. Its also important to keep the blade well lubricated and free from sap build up.

Offline mountainlake

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Re: Woodmizer question(s)
« Reply #6 on: August 26, 2014, 04:41:12 AM »

 Make sure you have plenty of set and at least 1/4" down pressure on the blade.  Steve