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Author Topic: Milling Spruce  (Read 12077 times)

Offline Albc

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Milling Spruce
« on: June 20, 2014, 01:14:20 AM »
I read a previous post that discussed milling spruce. I think it was Kirk that claimed a blade change every 300 bd ft. I take it the trick is a sharp blade. It should be always, but I take it that the knots are hard on the blades? I have some beautiful spruce and it would be a shame not to mill it. I have only milled it with the Alaskan mill. Your input is appreciated.

Al.
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Offline Kirk Allen

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Re: Milling Spruce
« Reply #1 on: June 20, 2014, 11:48:26 AM »
My experience is limited (about 10K bf) when it comes to Spruce.  The knots are hard as hell and that is what makes tough to cut with blade that has lost its edge. 

New blade, cuts great for up to 500 BF with no knots.  If there are a lot of knots I saw problems at the 300 bf point in the cutting.   
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Offline Albc

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Re: Milling Spruce
« Reply #2 on: June 21, 2014, 10:33:37 PM »
That is good to know. My grandfather milled thousands and thousands of bd ft without any apparent issues (that I can remember) but that was with a circular mill. I am planning on using the spruce logs for a guest cabin. The logs will be milled on 2 sides only, half dovetail notch and chinked. With only a few cuts per log, should minimize the blade changes. (hopefully)

Thanks for the input.
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Offline Stevem

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Re: Milling Spruce
« Reply #3 on: June 24, 2014, 04:36:18 PM »
The knots on Sitka spruce are hard enough to make sparks on a chain saw chain.  Don't know about other spruces.  Great for fire wood though.  Sawed many Sitka with a Mobile Dimension saw years ago and a dull blade would actually ride up on the knots and leave a small portion uncut.  The wood itself is rather soft.  

Hillside grown Sitka can have a lot of internal stress and bend as you cut it.  If that's the case then turning the log 180 degrees after a cut can even the stress relief and help keep the log straight.
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Offline mountainlake

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Re: Milling Spruce
« Reply #4 on: August 26, 2014, 04:35:07 AM »

 On my TK mill I've found that using a 3/4 pitch blade works way better than a 7/8 pitch blade, no idea why.  Steve
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Offline Albc

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Re: Milling Spruce
« Reply #5 on: August 26, 2014, 07:24:31 AM »
My milling of spruce has been going good. No issues with the 10 degree x 7/8" x 1 1/4 x 0.042 bands. Yes they dull quicker. I was going to try a 7 degree band and 3/4 TS this winter. Just to experiment.
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Offline Kirk Allen

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Re: Milling Spruce
« Reply #6 on: August 26, 2014, 02:50:09 PM »
I have several more to mill up this month.  If I get 400bf out of a blade on spruce I am happy.
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Offline mountainlake

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Re: Milling Spruce
« Reply #7 on: August 26, 2014, 03:27:00 PM »
 Kirk  Have you tried a 3/4 pitch blade yet on spruce, if not you should.   Spruce up to around 12" wide cuts OK with a 7/8 pitch blade but in those wide cuts a 3/4 pitch does a lot better.   Steve
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Offline Albc

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Re: Milling Spruce
« Reply #8 on: August 30, 2014, 10:33:43 PM »
I have actually never kept track of the board feet/blade. I am going to do that next week just to compare!

Mountainlake, specifically what performance is better with the 3/4? Is it longevity, speed of cut, accuracy, quality? Inquiring minds need to know. ;D
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Offline mountainlake

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Re: Milling Spruce
« Reply #9 on: August 31, 2014, 06:18:32 PM »
 
 The 3/4 cut a lot straighter in wide cuts.    Steve
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