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Author Topic: Taper sawn lap siding  (Read 23095 times)

Offline TnAndy

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Taper sawn lap siding
« on: June 17, 2015, 10:43:48 AM »
How many of you band mill owners make tapered lap siding off your mill ?   I make an 8" wide (6" exposure) siding that varies from 1/4-5/16" on the top edge to a 3/4-7/8" on the bottom.   I've used white pine,hemlock, and yellow poplar for it.  All my sheds, barns, shop building are sided with it.

Offline TnAndy

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Re: Taper sawn lap siding
« Reply #1 on: June 18, 2015, 07:06:47 PM »
(This is a little tutorial I made up for another site of non-sawyers.  Ya'll probably know most of this, but some might find it interesting)

How to saw lap siding without an expensive "lap siding" attachment:

Put a log on your mill.

Here, I put a 15+" x 12' poplar log on mine.  The small end (shown here) is on the far end of the mill.  The other end was about 16-17"  (sorta egg shaped.  Many logs are not round).  I painted the other end with some black paint to show the cutting easier.





Making the first cut, I opened a face about 7-8" wide.  Then I dropped down 5/4 (1 1/4") because I want all my side lumber to be 5/4 x 6" for roof stripping for an upcoming project.  The initial slab from the first cut is laying to the right.





Now I peavy the log counter clockwise against the dogs, and make the second cut.



Then I roll the log again for the 3rd cut.  Before making THIS cut, I move my quarter scale (the 4/5/6/8 one on the right) so 5 (for 5/4) lines up with 8".  The inch scale is not movable, and is base off the height from the saw bed.  The quarter scale can be moved up and down.  I want all my side lumber to be 5/4, and I want to end up with an 8" wide cant, and this 3rd cut is where that happens.

You can see 8", then one of the 5's lined up with it.  The small 12v motor to the left of the scale is what moves the saw head up and down.





Then raise the saw head to make the slab third cut on a 5...in this case, the best choice is the 5 at about 13 1/2".  You want the most yield you can get, meaning the thinest slab.  It's an eyeball guess.






Now I have a 3 sided cant 13 1/4" by whatever height you can get out of that last side.  I make two more cuts with the log in that position, yielding two un-edged 5/4 boards. I set them aside to be edged later.  That gets most of the bark off the cant on that side, leaving a square edge.





Now I roll the cant 90 degree, and cut that last slab side off.  I ended up with about 12 3/4" (no picture, was busy)

Now I have a 4 sided cant that is 12 3/4 tall, and  8" + 2 more 5/4 boards wide.  I roll it 90 degrees, and saw those two 5/4 boards off the original first slab cut side.





That leaves me a cleaned up, 4 sided cant, 8" wide, and 12 3/4" tall.







Ready to start making lap siding:

I roll the cant towards me, and stick a plywood shim under it on the bed rail side, cocking the cant toward me at an angle.  This causes the horizontal blade to cut a tapered cut.  You have to simply 'eyeball' the amount, but after a while, you get pretty consistent.  I go for about a 1/4-5/16' on the thin side, to 3/4-7/8" on the thick side.  This is determined by raising or lowering the saw head.

First cut:




The remaining cuts, you simply remove the shims on cut 2, put them back on cut 3, remove on cut 4, etc, lowering the saw head each time.

Show are the first 3 cuts, and pcs of siding.  ( see why I painted that end black now ? ) (  :D  )




You just keep on going until you run out of cant.  In this case, I ended up with another 5/4 board, 8" wide on the bottom.  Sometimes it's a 2x, sometimes it's a 1x, whatever....depends on how tall the cant was to begin with giving you the leftover board on the bottom.

SO, this log yielded 14 pcs of siding, and 6 boards 5/4 x 6" x 12'.  One of the edged slabs yielded 2 finished boards as it was over 12" wide with the bark.

Once I get the cant below 6", I turn those 5/4 slabs up vertical against the cant, and run the saw down it at about 9" to square them off, then flip with that edged side down, and drop  the saw head to 6", and make it a squared board.  You can edge a whole bunch of boards at one time this way.....not uncommon to do 5-8 at a whack.







« Last Edit: June 18, 2015, 07:18:34 PM by TnAndy »

Offline backwoods sawyer

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Re: Taper sawn lap siding
« Reply #2 on: June 20, 2015, 01:18:59 AM »
Nice tutorial

I made a jig similar to the one Woodmizer sells, but used shims for a long time. It is a little faster and does not take a second person to assist to keep a good pace.

Have a customer on the schedule now that is wanting to make a batch of lap siding, 2x6-8 will be side cuts.

I figure to get a 1,000 bft of siding you have to start with 2,000-2,500 bft of logs over 14" in diameter.


Offline TnAndy

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Re: Taper sawn lap siding
« Reply #3 on: June 20, 2015, 04:29:56 PM »
Yeah, I actually bought a Woodmizer lap siding/shingle maker attachment, and it spent the bulk of my ownership of it hanging on the wall of the mill building.  

The problem I had with it was not only did two plywood shims do EXACTLY the same thing, but you had to saw a cant (or cants), take them off the mill, put the attachment on the mill bed, then RELOAD the dang cant into the attachment....what a crock of manure !  

You get an 8x15-20" tall cant, 12-16 feet long, and you got some weight there.  WHOLE lot better to just saw the dang thing while it's already on the bed than wrestle it off and back on.....

Now, for making sawn shingles, the attachment was quite handy.....if you make sawn shingles.

Somebody came along later and wanted to buy the attachment, and I sold it (after telling him the above)....so I no longer own that useless hunk of iron.

Offline furu

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Re: Taper sawn lap siding
« Reply #4 on: June 22, 2015, 02:17:35 AM »
Nice write up on the procedure.
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Integrity is not just doing the right thing when no one is looking.
Integrity is doing the right thing when no one else will ever even know.

Offline bandmiller2

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Re: Taper sawn lap siding
« Reply #5 on: February 05, 2016, 06:19:00 AM »
Very interesting, I've never made lap siding always cut shingles because I used to own a shingle mill. White cedar is best for shingles but white pine will do if they are stained. Used to fell a w. pine get as many sawlogs as possible then cut the tops for shingle chunks. Seems theirs 16" between the nodes of most pines. The real spoiler is to cut a cant into shingle chunks. Thanks Andy I may try your method. Frank C.

Offline Kirk Allen

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Re: Taper sawn lap siding
« Reply #6 on: February 05, 2016, 08:47:45 AM »
Great write up! Thanks for sharing!
Integrity is doing the right thing when no one is watching!

Offline customcutter

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Re: Taper sawn lap siding
« Reply #7 on: November 27, 2017, 09:21:32 PM »
Thanks for sharing this.  I was wondering the other day, if I couldn't just use a few shims and do exactly what you just described.  Thanks for answering my thoughts...

thanks,
Ken

Offline xlogger

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Re: Taper sawn lap siding
« Reply #8 on: November 28, 2017, 03:54:38 AM »
wondering how the best way to sticker boards for drying?

Offline furu

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Re: Taper sawn lap siding
« Reply #9 on: November 28, 2017, 12:35:48 PM »
I sawed out a bunch of 5 inch lap siding that was finally  intended for rabbeted ship lap (another story).
5 inch wide by 1" taper to 1/2"
When I stacked it for drying I set it up pretty normal with the 1 inch thick side up against the 1/2" thin side and then placed the stickers directly over that.  Obviously there were gaps but the structural integrity of the stack seemed ok and the air flow was fine.

I thought it was way too much work to have specially designed stickers for the lap siding profile.
Integrity is not just doing the right thing.
Integrity is not just doing the right thing when no one is looking.
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Offline bandmiller2

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Re: Taper sawn lap siding
« Reply #10 on: November 28, 2017, 06:03:21 PM »


Furu, just had a good chuckle when you said "way too much work" that pretty much describes everything we do around the mill, Frank C.

Offline furu

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Re: Taper sawn lap siding
« Reply #11 on: November 29, 2017, 12:01:38 AM »

Furu, just had a good chuckle when you said "way too much work" that pretty much describes everything we do around the mill, Frank C.

There are different degrees of "too much work".  For me I try to work smarter not harder but do not always succeed. :o

Well for a 20 ft stack I figure around 150 stickers with  up to 8 hand formed profiles for the lap siding per sticker depending upon how wide the stack.  That requires about 1200 hand made profiles on the stickers for each size lap siding.  Joe wants 5" John want 6" and Jill want 8 inch lap siding.  That is about 3600 hand made profiles cut into the stickers that can be used for nothing but lap siding.  That is what I call too much work.

Oh Yeah  These calculations were too much work I will stop here.  ::)

Here are pictures of the rabbeted lap siding that I mentioned above.  Again too much work.
The exposed ends are then covered by vertical boards that give it a finished look.




« Last Edit: November 29, 2017, 12:59:12 AM by furu »
Integrity is not just doing the right thing.
Integrity is not just doing the right thing when no one is looking.
Integrity is doing the right thing when no one else will ever even know.

Offline joasis

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Re: Taper sawn lap siding
« Reply #12 on: November 29, 2017, 05:29:43 AM »
So how did you get such great pictures uploaded?

Please describe the step by step. Thanks!
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Offline Ox

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Re: Taper sawn lap siding
« Reply #13 on: November 29, 2017, 10:30:31 AM »
Superb work, furu.  That is a level of craftsmanship I will never achieve on lapboard siding.  Unless somebody was paying damn good money...lol
I can see that style almost will help with lateral stability of the building!  Whodathunkit?
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Use it up, wear it out, make it do or do without
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Offline jb griffin

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Re: Taper sawn lap siding
« Reply #14 on: November 30, 2017, 10:09:12 PM »
That lap siding is nice, but I am WAY more interested in that tracked machine in the background.
1.5 million bdft and counting sawn on a Baker Dominator
Lt40Hyd 33hp Kubota at home.

Offline furu

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Re: Taper sawn lap siding
« Reply #15 on: November 30, 2017, 11:16:32 PM »
That lap siding is nice, but I am WAY more interested in that tracked machine in the background.
That is my forestry mulcher. 
There is a thread on here somewhere about it.    I use it to site prep areas for reforestation.  Mostly my own forest land but I have recently branched out and now have a forestry services company where I do work for folks.
Here is a better look.  It is an ASV PT110 CTL (Compact Track Loader) with a Fecon mulching head.  A really great combination of two great pieces of machinery.

Integrity is not just doing the right thing.
Integrity is not just doing the right thing when no one is looking.
Integrity is doing the right thing when no one else will ever even know.

Offline furu

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Re: Taper sawn lap siding
« Reply #16 on: November 30, 2017, 11:20:45 PM »
So how did you get such great pictures uploaded?

Please describe the step by step. Thanks!
I am working on a step by step "how-to"with screen-shots; but trying to be thorough so it is taking a little time. 
Integrity is not just doing the right thing.
Integrity is not just doing the right thing when no one is looking.
Integrity is doing the right thing when no one else will ever even know.

Offline Ox

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Re: Taper sawn lap siding
« Reply #17 on: December 01, 2017, 08:48:59 AM »
What nice machinery.  We never had nothin' like that on the farm!  I've noticed that nice machinery makes dull work better.  I remember when we got our first disc mower back in the early 90s - we could mow at least twice as fast and it became almost fun for a little while!  Course that wore off pretty quick...lol
K.I.S.S. - Keep It Simple Stupid
Use it up, wear it out, make it do or do without
1989 GMC 3500 4x4 diesel dump and plow truck, 1964 Oliver 1600 Industrial with Parsons loader and backhoe, 1986 Zetor 5211, Cat's Claw sharpener, single tooth setter, homemade Linn Lumber 1900 style mill, old tools

Offline jb griffin

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Re: Taper sawn lap siding
« Reply #18 on: December 02, 2017, 08:53:40 AM »
Nice rig furu, you need to bring that to my place and leave it for a spell.

Ox, I remember the first time I ran a disc mower, a 9' Krone on a Stoney Point caddy hooked to dx 4.70 Deutz, that sucker would cut hay at 7.5 mph and probably faster but the fields around here are too rough.
1.5 million bdft and counting sawn on a Baker Dominator
Lt40Hyd 33hp Kubota at home.

Offline Ox

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Re: Taper sawn lap siding
« Reply #19 on: December 03, 2017, 08:39:21 AM »
I just deleted more farming story swaps.  I'm such a jerk for topic drift.  Sorry about that, folks.

I thought about lap siding once and was going to make a simple jig to rock the cant back and forth.  Shove it under the cant until it butts up against the stopper strip, mill, take it back out, mill, repeat.  Then I figured what the hell and I'll just do board and batten which is traditionally what's used around here.  I might still do a shed or something with lap siding just to say that I did.
K.I.S.S. - Keep It Simple Stupid
Use it up, wear it out, make it do or do without
1989 GMC 3500 4x4 diesel dump and plow truck, 1964 Oliver 1600 Industrial with Parsons loader and backhoe, 1986 Zetor 5211, Cat's Claw sharpener, single tooth setter, homemade Linn Lumber 1900 style mill, old tools

Offline furu

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Re: Taper sawn lap siding
« Reply #20 on: December 03, 2017, 11:39:39 AM »
Nothing all that bad about a little topic drift. 
I did not know that you could delete posts.  Modify them for several hours but completely delete them.  How does one do that?  See, another topic drift.

jb griffen and I drifted with his comment about my mulcher and my response posting. 
We don't get too hung up on that stuff; we are not like some places.
I was actually enjoying some of the descriptions you were writing.
Integrity is not just doing the right thing.
Integrity is not just doing the right thing when no one is looking.
Integrity is doing the right thing when no one else will ever even know.

Offline Ox

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Re: Taper sawn lap siding
« Reply #21 on: December 03, 2017, 06:59:53 PM »
Nah, I didn't delete after it was posted, just re-read after a bunch of writing and realized my stories had nothing to do with lap siding.  lol

I've got stories out the wazoo about farming and trucking and such, but most times I don't remember much until another conversation rings a bell in my dopey mind.

I'll tell ya one thing - cows are dumb but you can't sneak up on one.  Try it some day - it's impossible!
K.I.S.S. - Keep It Simple Stupid
Use it up, wear it out, make it do or do without
1989 GMC 3500 4x4 diesel dump and plow truck, 1964 Oliver 1600 Industrial with Parsons loader and backhoe, 1986 Zetor 5211, Cat's Claw sharpener, single tooth setter, homemade Linn Lumber 1900 style mill, old tools

Offline joasis

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Re: Taper sawn lap siding
« Reply #22 on: December 04, 2017, 07:01:40 AM »
I do not mind off topic posts, after all, what is a community of friends for?

I am all for posting interesting stories, past careers, family and friends, veterans, politics, and wait for it.....where you go to church if you choose.

Politically correct, we are not.
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Offline Ox

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Re: Taper sawn lap siding
« Reply #23 on: December 04, 2017, 08:41:23 AM »
*GASP*  Not politically correct?  I feel violated and vulnerable.  Where's the hot chocolate, coloring books and safe rooms?  ;D

I often wonder if the liberals teach their "men" how to squat to pee.  I remember reading somewhere that the liberal males were tested for their levels of testosterone and the males were actually shocked to learn that their levels were low!  Seriously!  They were shocked!  My Lord, when my 13 year old daughter is more of a man than them (we're "country folk" lol) I coulda told you that and saved the cost of the testing.
K.I.S.S. - Keep It Simple Stupid
Use it up, wear it out, make it do or do without
1989 GMC 3500 4x4 diesel dump and plow truck, 1964 Oliver 1600 Industrial with Parsons loader and backhoe, 1986 Zetor 5211, Cat's Claw sharpener, single tooth setter, homemade Linn Lumber 1900 style mill, old tools

Offline HaroldCR - AKA Fla.-Deadheader

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Re: Taper sawn lap siding
« Reply #24 on: December 04, 2017, 11:45:03 AM »
 NOT POLITICALLY CORRECT ?????  My god, the humanity !!!!!!! 
 
 I just sawed 5/8" and cut the top curved part with a 2 HP and wide bit and cut the bottom groove with a trim router and a square bit. Goes quick when you get set up for it. This was for our house, not customers.