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Author Topic: pickaroon  (Read 34124 times)

Offline Ox

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Re: pickaroon
« Reply #25 on: November 01, 2017, 08:34:00 AM »
 :)
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Offline HaroldCR - AKA Fla.-Deadheader

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Re: pickaroon
« Reply #26 on: November 23, 2017, 08:53:19 AM »
I carry my pickaroon at night, when I go looking for thieves on my farm. Dog starts going crazy, out we go. Guns are supposedly banned here, so, I won't say how many I have or don't have, but, just think how it would feel to have a pickaroon tip firmly embedded in your calf or thigh muscle or in your knee with me jerking on it.  >:D ;D

 Yes, logrite tools do not disengage easily. I spoke with Kevin at a show one time and he said they have engineered the hooks on their cant hooks to catch a log firmly. I want mine to drop out when needed so I don't get shoved around or a sprained wrist. I did end up with a small broken bone in my lower leg because of this. Hard to get people to listen, sometimes, EH ??

Offline Ox

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Re: pickaroon
« Reply #27 on: November 23, 2017, 03:11:06 PM »
If the thieving bastards are on your land up to no good I hope you hook em somewhere that don't heal so well... lol

I'm glad I ain't the only one that thinks of the hookaroon as a weapon.  Helluva club or sticker picker too. 

Happy Thanksgiving!
K.I.S.S. - Keep It Simple Stupid
Use it up, wear it out, make it do or do without
1989 GMC 3500 4x4 diesel dump and plow truck, 1964 Oliver 1600 Industrial with Parsons loader and backhoe, 1986 Zetor 5211, Cat's Claw sharpener, single tooth setter, homemade Linn Lumber 1900 style mill, old tools

Offline Cutting Edge Saw Svc.

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Re: pickaroon
« Reply #28 on: November 24, 2017, 04:31:48 AM »
Attached are pictures of the aforementioned T-One branded picaroon in it virgin shape.

If you're doing softwoods, I'd venture to say the broader tip will control the amount of penetration, in a good way.


Harold - Yep, the Logrite version falls short.  As you shared, potentially dangerous, even in experienced hands. 

The only reason I can think Logrite shaped their hook like they did, was to get a piece hooked on the side vs. the end.  If so, they definitely haven't used one enough to realize the ergonomic benefit.  No matter, Kevin didn't seem real receptive to my input/feedback either.
« Last Edit: November 24, 2017, 04:47:30 AM by Cutting Edge Saw Svc. »
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Offline bandmiller2

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Re: pickaroon
« Reply #29 on: November 24, 2017, 06:07:29 AM »
Wile we're talking tools, I get aggravated every time I use a peavey or cant hook, the swinging hook never seems to want to bite large logs. I must have half a dozen, even the worshiped blue ones, and none seem to grab the way I like.  Another thing I would like to try is to put a light spring at the swinging hooks pivot point to help it grab and act like a ratchet. With a spring on the swinging hook you could push the peavey onto the log and drop the handle to get another bite. Have any of you tried this.?? Frank C.

Offline HaroldCR - AKA Fla.-Deadheader

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Re: pickaroon
« Reply #30 on: November 24, 2017, 08:15:06 AM »
I am definitely not the resident expert on all things logging. That said, Bandmiller, I much prefer the loose swinging hook, but, it needs to be shaped correctly to do what you want it to do. A new can't hook is useless to me. I also put the larger logrite hooks on the smaller log cant handle. If you look at the logrite hooks, they are cut on a bevel on the inside of the hook. There is no talon shape to catch or bite, and it won't release because it is too narrow and binds.

 First, the logrite hook is a flat piece of metal. Once engaged in a log, it won't release easily. The " tip/hook" needs to be wide and tapered. A quick twist and the hook should fall out of the log. Also, the tip should be filed to a very slight "talon" shape, so it catches easily but still falls away. The hooks are heat treated so a file will not cut them. All they do is scrape the bark until it happens to fit in a spot and grab. Put your cant hook on a log and watch where in the curve of the hook  contacts the log. It should not touch the log until you engage the hook.

 I watch many guys use a cant hook to try to PUSH the log to turn it.  ::)  You have NO power to push. With a correctly shaped hook, I can roll most logs across the yard without ever touching the metal hook. Once in a great while, I may have to "toe" the hook to get it far enough under the log to get a bigger bite to roll a curved or stobbed log.

 Timing of the swinging hook is everything to getting it to work correctly.

 Also, I have absolutely no use for a peavey. They are for log drives on the rivers which don't happen much anymore. They slide off the logs for not having the metal "Heel" that bites into the log.  It's a "yankee" thing.  >:D >:D ;D ;D No offense intended, just stating the facts and only the facts.  ;)
« Last Edit: November 24, 2017, 08:40:27 AM by HaroldCR »

Offline furu

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Re: pickaroon
« Reply #31 on: November 24, 2017, 11:05:40 AM »
I have two of the LR cant hooks and have been rather frustrated at them for what sounds like the very things that have been described. 
They have been much better than the manual methods I previously employed and for that reason I am glad I have them.

Having said that: they both frustrate the devil out of me.   90% of the time the hook will not engage in the bark of the log without very specific hook placement.  When I got them I had this concept that I could roll a log or two of us could roll a log (one at each end) by rolling it and then re-setting in a ratchet like manner and re-engaging with a forward motion the cant hook again. 

NOT EVEN CLOSE

As I said 90% of the time I have to take the hook and place it in the bark in a deep furrow or even very frequently kicking the hook with my boot to push the hook into the wood to get a good bite or it just skates on the bark.  I thought maybe my logs were larger in size than they were designed for but when I checked the specs (8" - 32" diameter log) they should work just fine.  It is a very laborious procedure to roll a log even a very small distance.  I will confess the smaller logs under 16" they do a pretty good job but over that the hooks just don't bite properly.  I think it is the shape/design of the hook not just the point but the arc of the entire hook.  I know they are built by a company back east and they probably use eastern hardwoods for their test logs but they don't work that well on Douglas fir and big leaf maple and western red cedar.
More arc to the hook would be better I think.
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Offline Cutting Edge Saw Svc.

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Re: pickaroon
« Reply #32 on: November 24, 2017, 05:26:26 PM »
Below are pics of the modified picaroon/hookeroon.

I can say this without hesitation... This is a working tool and well worth the investment.  I would not have any problem recommending it to someone either.  The new tip shape has been through a little over 4 full cords of hardwood.  I would guess it is steel similar to "Hardox" because if it was any less of a material, it would be bent/twisted beyond recognition.

The modified tip has handled hardwood rounds up to 20" dia x 22" +/- and the pics were taken today.  Rounds were literally slung up and onto the wood-splitter.  Tip disengages relatively easily and even hooks  rounds on the side well too. 

The abrasive/non-slip paint has now lost it's "edge" through use... which is a good thing.  There is still plenty of "bite" to add friction, but allows a nice "sliding swing" through a gloved hand also.  I'll be leaving it on... I've grown to like it actually.

I call it a WIN !! 

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Offline furu

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Re: pickaroon
« Reply #33 on: November 24, 2017, 06:03:09 PM »
Nice job.  Now you did that modification with which pickaroon manufacturer?
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Integrity is doing the right thing when no one else will ever even know.

Offline HaroldCR - AKA Fla.-Deadheader

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Re: pickaroon
« Reply #34 on: November 24, 2017, 06:32:05 PM »
Yep, that is roughly that "talon" eagle claw talon shape I was describing earlier.  If more people would try this slight mod, I really believe we will get a lot of positive feedback on this thread.

Offline bandmiller2

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Re: pickaroon
« Reply #35 on: November 24, 2017, 07:08:28 PM »
Hal, I much prefer a cant hook which is what I use on the circular mill. My homebuilt band mill uses heavy duty street sign posts for bunks the ones with the holes every inch. The point of the peavey fits in the holes and is handy for snugging logs agents the backstops. You would get a chuckle my peavey has a Louisville slugger bat for a handle, its worked well for many years. Frank C.

Offline Cutting Edge Saw Svc.

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Re: pickaroon
« Reply #36 on: November 24, 2017, 07:42:22 PM »
Nice job.  Now you did that modification with which pickaroon manufacturer?

furu,

Name stamped into the head is "T-One"

Link to Amazon - https://www.amazon.com/JH-CONTRACTING-INC-36-Pickaroon/dp/B00I4AK1X4


Harold,

Yep, the "tooth" as I call it, it how the magic happens.  It can't "bite" without a "tooth".   ;D

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Offline 4x4American

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Re: pickaroon
« Reply #37 on: November 25, 2017, 08:43:13 PM »
I like a PV for centering a log into postion on the sawmill...when you get it to the loader arms and find that it needs to slide back a bit to hit the roller toeboard, you jam the tip of the PV into the ground under the log and pry the log backwardly.  On the mobile dimension mill, bossman had bunks with dogs and the slides for the dogs had little holes in them and we would stick the tip of the pv into the hole and use it to push the log forward.  It's also nice to stab the pv into the ground so you dont gotta bend over to get it.

Cant hooks are much better for rolling logs, but I think a pv is better for manipulating one.   :o

A friend of mine killed a porcupine with a logrite hookaroon one time.  It worked well...I imagine they would be great for popping the thieves tires on his getaway vehicle too.

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Offline HaroldCR - AKA Fla.-Deadheader

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Re: pickaroon
« Reply #38 on: November 26, 2017, 05:16:07 AM »
When I was taught how to run my 1st mill, the older gebtleman taught me how to move logs so easily I cut the tip off the PV I was gifted. I took the drain oil from the Power unit and mixed it with a little diesel fuel. Use a scrub brush and just sling a little bit on the metal bunks and you can slide a 1000 pound log around by hand. That is NO exageration.

 On the homebuilt bandmill I used the 2 plane clamp to move logs and cants.

 Just never had a use for a PV. They just slip and slide something I just cant stand.