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Author Topic: How would I build my own trailer  (Read 64072 times)

Offline Steve G.

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How would I build my own trailer
« on: April 19, 2008, 09:46:22 PM »
Hey guys,

How would it be possible to build my own trailer? I am thinking of building a car/utility trailer so we can haul supplys and a also a kubota tractor from time to time weighing 7000lb. I would like to do it for under $1000. I need to know anything you know about building trailers, I have never built one before. Also what kind of welder should I get, from the research I've done I came to the conclusion that I would need a mig welder (what kind would be best?); either I'll rent one from the big orange or buy one for around $500. I have looked at plans online but haven't bought any yet. All suggestions and advice are helpful. Thanks in advance!

Steve
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Offline Frank Pender - AKA "Tail Gunner"

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Re: How would I build my own trailer
« Reply #1 on: April 19, 2008, 10:04:36 PM »
Well, Steve G, I would first shop around to see what is out there for already available trailers.  You might well be suprised at what you could and will find for around the dollars you are talking about. 

Offline Kirk Allen

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Re: How would I build my own trailer
« Reply #2 on: April 20, 2008, 07:19:22 AM »
If your set on building, this is probably the best and least expensive source for parts. I used them for my axlles, tires, and lights.

http://www.etrailerpart.com/
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Offline Steve G.

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Re: How would I build my own trailer
« Reply #3 on: April 20, 2008, 12:47:39 PM »
One of the reasons were thinking of building a trailer is so we can learn how to weld. I've been keeping an eye out for trailers on craigslist and the trailers that are in good condition are either around $2000 or more.
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Offline JP Sinclair

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Re: How would I build my own trailer
« Reply #4 on: April 21, 2008, 09:59:43 AM »
Steve - I build my own, I'll get some pics and post them.  IT works slick, all steel construction and very rugged. 

Offline Steve G.

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Re: How would I build my own trailer
« Reply #5 on: April 21, 2008, 12:33:46 PM »
Thanks JP, i'll be waitin' for them ;) In the meantime, what welders do you guys use and wich one would you sugggest I get?

And also, where do you get the steel?
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Offline Kirk Allen

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Re: How would I build my own trailer
« Reply #6 on: April 21, 2008, 01:40:36 PM »
As far as welders go, Miller has always been a top of the line welder and I am sure there are others but that is the one I am most familiar with. 

We have a couple places within 40 miles to buy steel from.  You should be able to find a supplier fairly easy I would think. 
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Offline Steve G.

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Re: How would I build my own trailer
« Reply #7 on: April 21, 2008, 03:10:00 PM »
Yeah I think we have plenty of people to buy steel from - I did a google search and we have over 10 within a few miles radius :)

I guess my question is, what kind of welder should I get. And what should the specs be.
About the steel, my question is, what kind do you use? I-beams? Boxed steel? etc.

Thanks alot guys

Steve
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Offline Frank Pender - AKA "Tail Gunner"

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Re: How would I build my own trailer
« Reply #8 on: April 21, 2008, 03:16:43 PM »


Steve, all I have ever used is a Lincoln buz box for welding.  The main rod I use is 6011 rod.  It seems to be a good all purpose rod for my needs.

As to the design of steel, well I have used both tubing and channel for building trailers.

Again, I have also found that I can walk over the dollars to save the pennies.  I usually watch and can mort often than not, find the type of trailers I am looking for, much cheeper that spending lots of time, building, gathering materials and searching out designs.   Once I get the trailer, I can always make modifications, if need be, to mee what I want the trailer to do.

Offline Steve G.

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Re: How would I build my own trailer
« Reply #9 on: April 21, 2008, 03:38:19 PM »
We've been looking on craigslist and found a car trailer for $600 - we might go look at it. If we can't seem to find one we might build one. However I am still interested in building a trailer. I don't know what's with me but I love building things. Plus once we get a welder - we could probably make a custom bumper for the front of our ford ranger since I smashed it off while I was 4x4ing :o ;D

If my dad does decide to build a trailer or weld anything I have to have all the facts about everything down - or nothings going forward.

I don't really have a clear understanding of the different welders; like tig, arc, and mig. I thought I wanted a mig welder but then I saw this on northern tool. What would be wrong with welding with this?
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200304603_200304603

The guy that reviewed this welder said he built his atv trailer with it!
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Offline Frank Pender - AKA "Tail Gunner"

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Re: How would I build my own trailer
« Reply #10 on: April 21, 2008, 10:17:20 PM »
With my buzz box I can weld down to ten gage material and up to extra thick, like three or four inch materials.

Offline Steve G.

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Re: How would I build my own trailer
« Reply #11 on: April 22, 2008, 06:17:29 AM »
Yikes!!! 3 or 4 inches - you ust of spent a fortune on that thing. Is it a mig, tig or arc?

Would there be anything wrong with the one I posted? I'm a beginner, I'm only 15 years old - it's not like i'm starting a business or anything with welding all I need is a little welder that will get the job done for this trailer and a few little other things. ;)
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Offline Stevem

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Re: How would I build my own trailer
« Reply #12 on: April 22, 2008, 11:44:38 AM »
Things to consider on getting a welder is what your going to weld, where you're going to weld at, how thick your going to be welding and how much your going to be welding at one time.

Time welding is based on duty cycle,  or how long you're welding verses how long the the machine is on.  In a production situation you need a 100% duty cycle or else you melt the transformer down.  It just can't get rid of the heat fast enough.  I wouldn't think you'd need that.

Amperage is needed to get penetration of the metal and more amperage means the ability to weld thicker material.  200 or so amps will weld most common metals.  I've have a small MIG welder that is hard pressed to weld 1/4" material so it's not something I'd want to use to build a trailer, it's only rated at 125 amps at 20% duty cycle.  One minute welding 4 minute rest.  But heavy amperage welders some times need a dedicated electrical circuit so you don't blow the circuit breakers or over heat the wires in the wall.

My MIG welder was bought so I could weld sheet metal on auto bodies.  One of the limits is being able to weld outside.  If it's windy forget it,  The wind blows away the shielding gas and I get poor if any welds.  But I don't have to deal with slag chipping and can see what I've done as soon as I raise my hood.  There are commercial MIG welders that don't have that problem but they use more gas.

AC (buzz box) welders are good for just about anything but have some failings.
They don't really do well in overhead welding,  DC is better for that.  There is a limited number of rods they can use.  They don't do well on sheet metal, tend to blow holes in the metal. 

Small diameter rods are used for thin material and precise work, larger rods need more amperage but lay down thicker beads with deeper penetration on thicker material. 

Having said all that, the welder you provided a link to looks good for learning with and good all round capability.  And Hobart is a good name brand.  A good source of info would be a local welding shop or two to get more information.

The two most common welding rods used by us none professionals are 6011 and 7018.  6011 (60,00 lbs steel) is sometimes called "farmers rod" as it will burn through layers of dirt and rust and provide a pretty good weld.  The 7018 (70,000 lbs steel) rod is more for cleaner metals and strong welds, sometimes called production rod or low hydrogen rod.  It works better with a DC welder, but it works with an AC one, just not as good.  It's really good overhead welding with a DC welder.   I'd never use 6011 to build a trailer but I would use it to fix one. 

Pretty much you get what you pay for in welders. Higher duty cycle is better but cost more and may not be needed, higher amperage is better but cost more and may not be needed, AC-DC is better but cost more and may not be needed

What ever you decide just don't short yourself on the welding hood, permanent eye damage can result from poor eye protection.  Better to have a $100 mask and a $30 welder that the other way around.

Stevem

   



   
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Offline Steve G.

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Re: How would I build my own trailer
« Reply #13 on: April 22, 2008, 04:41:49 PM »
Thanks so much steve, so you would suggest I use 7018 rods to build a trailer?

And also, is the welder I posted good enough to weld a trailer?

Thanks again!

Steve
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Offline Steve G.

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Re: How would I build my own trailer
« Reply #14 on: April 22, 2008, 04:46:03 PM »

  Hobart Welding Sticks/Rods 10-Lb. Pk. — 5/32in. Dia., Model# 7018
Only $17.99
 
In Stock
Ship Wt. 10.2 lbs.
 
Fits your welding task. U.S.A.


Light penetrating for high deposition rates and faster travel speeds
5/32in. dia.
10-lb. pack
U.S.A.

 
 
Would this size be good to weld a trailer? How many pounds do you think it would take to weld a trailer?
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Offline Frank Pender - AKA "Tail Gunner"

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Re: How would I build my own trailer
« Reply #15 on: April 22, 2008, 05:35:04 PM »
I am not an expert at this welding sruff, but I would recommend the 6011 as it penetrates better.  99 percent of what I use 6011 on has not broken.

Offline Stevem

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Re: How would I build my own trailer
« Reply #16 on: April 23, 2008, 01:11:41 AM »
I stand corrected on the 6011.  Live and learn,  I like to use 7018 because the welds look better and it's sometimes refered to as a drag rod because you can stay very close to the metal and not worry too much about arc length.  But I'm self taught.
 
This from the web:
Both 6010 & 6011 are Fast Freeze Rods, deep penetrating.

They both have a light flux which allows you to see the molten puddle clearly.

The weld is not as attractive, and is usually used as a first pass rod, which is then covered by another rod, such as 7018. 

6011 is the easiest rod to use because of the stabilizers in the rod.

Arc Gap (the height of the tip of the rod off of the metal) is extremely important.  Do not use a small Arc Gap.  The small Arc Gap will not give the metal enough time to heat up.

7018

Shallower penetrating than 6010 or 6011

This is a low hydrogen rod with iron powder in the flux which prevents the weld from cracking. 

One of the highest quality welding rod, and can handle higher stress.

The metal must be clean (no rust, dirt, oil, etc. on metal).

Iron powder higher metal deposit rate (used as a filler rod)

Has a heavier slag which allows the molten metal to solidify faster while slag is still molten.

The 7018 electrode is more sensitive to Arc Gap.  Use a constant short arc gap with 7018.

Requires a higher amperage setting than 6011.

http://www.clovisusd.k12.ca.us/agcenter/arc_welding.htm

Stevem

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Offline Steve G.

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Re: How would I build my own trailer
« Reply #17 on: April 23, 2008, 06:41:20 AM »
http://www.trailerpart.com/52kdroptraileraxle.htm

I think I'm going to use 2 of those axles, would it be ok to get one with brakes and 1 without brakes?

I'm getting the 5,200lb axles because we need to haul 7500lb so we would just miss the rating with 2 3500lb axles.

We're thinking of building an 18ft car trailer - what kind of steel would I need? Boxed? how thick? what size? I need to go to the steel guy today or soon so if ya'll could help me out figure what size steel to use that would mighty helpful ;)
Thanks again,

Steve
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Offline Steve G.

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Re: How would I build my own trailer
« Reply #18 on: April 23, 2008, 06:46:15 AM »
And also, on the axle I posted, how do I know what wheel/size to put on it?

Thanks,

Steve
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Offline adk patroller

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Re: How would I build my own trailer
« Reply #19 on: April 23, 2008, 07:30:25 AM »
Steve G,

You may want to check with NY DOT.  With two 5000#+ axles you will be required to have a CDL(Commercial Drivers License) to operate the trailer legally in NY State.

The max GVWR of a trailer without a CDL is 10,000#.  I have been researching this with the local NYSP DOT detail officers in considering trucking our own logs to the veneer buyers.

If you hook a 10,001# or heavier trailer to a 3/4 or one ton pickup with a GVWR of 16,000 # or more you are required to have a CDL A which is a tractor trailer endorsement. :o
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Offline Steve G.

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Re: How would I build my own trailer
« Reply #20 on: April 23, 2008, 05:16:28 PM »
Is it possible to combine a 3500lb axle with a 5200lb axle for a total combine of 8700lb's?
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Offline Kirk Allen

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Re: How would I build my own trailer
« Reply #21 on: April 23, 2008, 07:27:30 PM »
Sounds good but when it comes to weight distribution each axle is carrying half the load so as you described, a total weight of 8700 lbs means one of those poor axles is carrying 4350, which is 850lb over its limit.

Now, with that in mind, I have two 7500lb axles under my trailer, thus an assumed 15000 lb load.  I have tipped the scales at 28,000 with it. Key being, that was slow driving and only a few miles from home. I would never want to take that out on a state road.  I think the axles can take a lot more than they give them credit but the law doesnt see it that way.
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Offline Steve G.

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Re: How would I build my own trailer
« Reply #22 on: April 23, 2008, 07:42:20 PM »
So do you think that if I need to haul 7500# I can use 2 3500# axles and still be far away from breaking the axles? What size and kind of steel would ya'll suggest for building an 18ft car trailer? I need to get my info together so I can get a price list. Thanks again guys.

Steve
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Offline Frank Pender - AKA "Tail Gunner"

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Re: How would I build my own trailer
« Reply #23 on: April 23, 2008, 07:59:33 PM »
I would strongly suggest that you consider torsion axels for your trailer. 

Offline Steve G.

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Re: How would I build my own trailer
« Reply #24 on: April 23, 2008, 08:52:58 PM »
I was wondering about that frank, thanks.
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