Need your advice

[Steve G.]

hello,

we are in a dilemma trying to figure out if we should make our log cabin 30x30 or 35x35 feet. We were all set on 35 until we found out the sawmill we'll be using could only cut 20ft - and the roof rafters (4x12 or 3x12) needed to be 24ft long. They only need to be 20 for the 30x30. My question is, is it possible at all to mill our own rafters? or is going to be to thick to dry in 2 years? And will we have to do any kind of planing or sanding after that? And also is it possible to get an extension for a timber harvest 30ht25?

Thanks,

Steve

[Frank Pender - AKA "Tail Gunner"]

Sure wish I could help you, Steve.  Is there a way you could make your own extension for the mill?

[Steve G.]

We already considered that - it would be 2x6 box steel with a piece of angle iron put on top so it would look like a triangle. The thing is, it has to be with in a 16th or 32nd of an inch, right? I don't think my welding skills are that good yet anyway. Plus we'd have to alter his mill and I don't even know if the hydrualic hoses can go that far.

Does anyone know of a company that would lease or rent us a 24ft sawmill for a week or two?

thanks again,

Steve

[joasis]

Is there a reason you are trying for 35' width? If you are milling your own lumber, and cost isn't guiding light, try to back off to 32 or 28 feet. Material tends to work out better in 4 foot increments. You are moving in the right direction, considering the most economical shape is a square (for conventional purposes), but you could go 28 wide by say 40 long and have 1100 sq/ft in frame. Then you are working with shorter logs, and material will be easier to handle.

A longer "cabin" would allow for a more "country" look, and may be more appealing.

[Steve G.]

That's a good thought there joasis, the thing is we have three sets of blueprints: 40x40, 35x35 and 30x30 (plus our 28x28 shop ). I don't know if we could make such a big change in the plans, maybe we could. Were not worried about the square because the roof will hang over 7 feet in the front and the back, so it ends of not looking square anyway. I'll have to talk to my dad about a 35x30.
Thanks alot,

Steve

I know I should start another thread but just a quick question, were going to mill our own 2x6 oak flooring - what kind of planing or sanding would we need to do before using it? There going to go right over the rafters on the second floor, in other words, no subflooring.

[Frank Pender - AKA "Tail Gunner"]

You would want to t and g the two by six, I suspect, as well and squaring up all four sides before laying it down.  I would also strongly suggest, drilling, screwing and plugging the ends of the boards.

[Steve G.]

We are going to TnG the 2x6's. Were just planning on renting the big floor sander and sanding it after it's down.

[Stevem]

Depending on the spacing of the joist and to save a little wood and weight, you might consider 5/4 oak for the floor instead of 2".  The 5/4 is plenty ridged and strong.  I've seen some of that in vertical grain and it's wonderful looking.

[Kirk Allen]

Ditto to what Stevem mentioned!  2" is overkill!

[Frank Pender - AKA "Tail Gunner"]

Kirk and Buzz will be helping saw Oak and Maple flooring tomorrow.  They will also be helping run some Douglas Fir flooring material as well.  You come here and want to work, I can accomodate you all.

[Steve G.]

Were not going to be spacing the joists 16" on center though - probably either 2 or 3ft... do you think 2" is still overkill? If so then I will most definately take your advice about doing 5/4.
Let's talk drying wood for a moment... when I sticker the wood do I put the stickers directly on top each other or alternated? I think I asked this before but I don't now where and I've seen some confusion on the net about this.
And for my 4x12(or 10)'s, how long do you think I will need to let them dry? Will putting a fan at the end of the stack help dry it faster?
We also have the option of doing 3x12's(or10's) and spacing them closer - do you think it would be smarter to make 3x's instead of 4x's for the purpose of drying faster and being able to be handled better?
 Thanks,

Steve