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Author Topic: mill no go  (Read 9339 times)

Offline mike p

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mill no go
« on: September 19, 2008, 07:09:24 AM »
im haveing chargeing problems on mill  :(have to swap batterys every copple of hours :P
installed an amp guage & the b&s & it is only putting out 1 amp at wide open throttle
called kasco & ted said they recomend mounting a one wire chev externail alternator.  but the 20 hp vanguard that came on my mill is considdered obsolite (new in 2004)& the kits are no longer avalabe as they have went to 24 hp now
contacted B&S they never heard of this kit but could sell me a shaft to mount on flywheel
so i may go that way & fadricat setup
any one elese done this or hered of it
the guy at kasco said the shafts are sometimes to short for a pulley to clear housing as its orignialy for pto connection
Eagle's Nest Tree farm & Sawmill
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Offline Kirk Allen

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Re: mill no go
« Reply #1 on: September 19, 2008, 12:16:00 PM »
I would bet you could purchase  all the parts you need to make it work at Tractor Supply.  They have all sorts of flywheel shafts, pully's etc and I bet it would be cheaper. 

Integrity is doing the right thing when no one is watching!

Offline mike p

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Re: mill no go
« Reply #2 on: September 19, 2008, 08:32:58 PM »
yes i need to check that out we have farm & home here
Eagle's Nest Tree farm & Sawmill
BSA Scoutmaster Retired
My reading of history convinces me that most bad government results from
 too much government.
   Thomas Jefferson 1802
 No free man shall ever be debarred the use of arms.

   Thomas Jefferson

Offline Stevem

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Re: mill no go
« Reply #3 on: September 20, 2008, 11:06:01 AM »
Check all wires and connections.  Look for green corrision, big clue.  You might just have a bad wire or connection.  Any suspect cleane or replace.
Alternators can be rebuilt.  Generally what goes out is the diodes  (3 pairs inside) .  Take off the alternator and take it to an auto electical shop that does starters and alternators.  They could also probably help from there if diodes aren't the problem.  If it's not the alternator it would be the voltage regulator or a wiring problem







Stevem
Because you can doesn't mean you should!

Offline mike p

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Re: mill no go
« Reply #4 on: September 20, 2008, 05:46:15 PM »
this has the Briggs & Stratten(20 hp vangauard) alternater coil under the flywheel im told in full working order it only charges 3 amps so im wanting to do the externial chev thing
Eagle's Nest Tree farm & Sawmill
BSA Scoutmaster Retired
My reading of history convinces me that most bad government results from
 too much government.
   Thomas Jefferson 1802
 No free man shall ever be debarred the use of arms.

   Thomas Jefferson

Offline Frank Pender - AKA "Tail Gunner"

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Re: mill no go
« Reply #5 on: September 20, 2008, 06:58:51 PM »
I am not as wrencher, but I would go with a Ford, instead. ;D

Offline Stevem

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Re: mill no go
« Reply #6 on: September 21, 2008, 12:42:36 PM »
If you put too big of an alternator on it there's a chance it will rob too much power from the engine at times unless your just wanting a battery charger. 

The reason the GM alt was suggested is that it's simple to wire.  Lots of street rods use them because of the simplicity of installation but you'd still have to figure out the drive belts which isn't an issue for auto engines.

Briggs makes bigger alternators, up to 10 amps,  that look like they should just be a bolt in to replace your current one.  You might need the regulators/diodes to go with them.  Briggs doesn't use the three sets of diodes, only one set so that part is easier.  Check with a certified Briggs tech to make sure or you could probably call Briggs and find out. 
Staying within factory configuration(s) makes life easier down the road.
Stevem
Because you can doesn't mean you should!