sawing beams

[snakeknuckles]

I recently harvested logs off a site that had been clear cut about 8 months ago. I ended up with 110 logs 12-25' long, 12-30" dia. They are mostly white and red oaks with the exception of 12 logs which I believe are hickory. The hickory is mostly straight and free of knots and looks like it should saw real good. I have started cutting the lot into posts and beams for my barn. I am cutting 8x8s and 8x12s out of the heart of the logs. When I am done cutting posts and beams I will slab the rest into 2x12 joists and 4x6 truss members. I have cut a couple oaks (24") and am satisfied with the way the saw is cutting. ( I just mounted a new 52" blade) When I attempt to cut the hickory, no matter how slow I feed, I cannot prevent  the blade from heating at the eye. I watch the back side of the blade to verify it is not rubbing the log. I cannot make it through a 12' log without overheating the blade. What should I do?

[Kirk Allen]

Not being familiar with circle mills that much my input may be wrong but I suspect if the problems is showing itself with Hickory then the bits need to be sharpened. 

We see the same thing with band blades in Hickory. The tension on the blade always dropps taking wide cuts in hickory because the blade is getting hot, thus expanding, which shows itself on the tension gauge as a drop in pressure.

I am betting the same thing is happening to your blade.  Try new or freshly and properly sharpened bits and see what happens.

Might need a different style of bit as well but again, I dont know much about the circle mills side of things. 

[Stevem]

Have you got water coolant going to the blade?  Increase in flow should help.

[Frank Pender - AKA "Tail Gunner"]

For my 52" headrig, water is a must, even with Douglas Fir logs.  Water at both the collar and the outer edge is as very good idea.

[HaroldCR - AKA Fla.-Deadheader]

 Ran my Corley for 4 years with no water. Sawed Hikrey Elem and posted Oak, among others. Only hit the blade once every little bit, with a mix of Diesel fuel and drain oil. Never left a color change or smelly effect

[snakeknuckles]

I have thought about cooling the blade, but I have never seen a circular mill cooled?? I wonder why?

[HaroldCR - AKA Fla.-Deadheader]

 I was taught by an old timer, how to run a mill. Another told me he ran a mill for several years, using a MOP. He had it sitting in a bucket, and every other cut or so, he would slap the blade with it, to keep it cooled down.    My teacher made SURE I would not have problems, and, would visit the mill every so often, and just sit and watch and smile. A Good teacher can make a decent sawyer out of MOST people. 

 The lead needs to be right on. The blade needs to stand up straight, with very little to no "waving". teeth are the number one issue with ALL saws.

 With the saw NOT running, advance the carriage so the first bunk is opposite the leading edge of the blade. measure from the head block to the blade. Run the carriage so you check all the headblocks the same way. They need to be right on the money.

 How much lead do you have ?? Does the blade ever scuff the log on the gig back ?? It needs to just barely kiss the log, if not JUST completely miss the face of the log.

 Take pains to get the teeth filed as 90° as possible, to the blade face.

 NOT trying to tell you how to run your mill, just putting things down as what MIGHT be the problem. Hickory, Elm and Pecan, can be buggers to saw. They usually want to move around and cause miscuts.

  I have the same problem with my 8" Peterson, on some types of logs, here in the Jungle. They will move enough so that the blade will "ZING" as it leaves the log. I have to take skim cuts. to get back to a proper plane with the log.   Some logs just do NOT want to cooperate.

[Stevem]

All Lucas mills have water cooling of the blade.  Just a drip system.  My local hardwood mill uses water all the time and it is a fast mill.  Years ago saw a Bellsaw with water on the blade.  Was told it was to keep the dust down. 

What Harold said I have no knowledge of other than pure adcademics.  Makes a lot of sense.  I'd trust him.

[HaroldCR - AKA Fla.-Deadheader]

 If much water is used around a large Circle mill, the sawdust should be difficult to move. It should ball up. I would not use water if it were my Circle mill.

 I have a Peterson, and, yes, I use water on it. Blade spins MUCH faster and can heat up much quicker, as the sawdust sometimes doesn't get thrown completely away from the cut. Circle mill always throw the dust straight down, to be moved by blower or chain.

[snakeknuckles]

Thanks for all the advice. I have been working with this saw (frick 00)for a couple years now and have met and continue to meet a lot of really cool people and learn as a result. I agree that lead, speed, sharp, square teeth are key to good cutting. I have recently fitted a brand new blade hammered to 550 rpm. I am running about 3/32" lead and the blade doesn't scuff on the gig back. The mop and bucket sounds like a good idea. I have a 15' long all steel carriage with 6 headblocks and they run even to the blade. Is there a way to post video clips (.mov) taken with an iphone here?

[Kirk Allen]

You can post it on Youtube and use the You-tube link above the smiely faces to have it pop up and play in the thread.