LT-10 can do big white oak

[SDB777]

Cut this stuff some time back, but I figured I should be a 'good' forum member and let everyone know that the LT-10 can cut the big stuff too.

Will admit, the throttle was almost opened up all the way during the cuts....glad I decided to get the upgraded motor.  The smaller motor probably would have cut the timber, but it would have taken a little longer....  The long one was 10"3", and the shorter one was 9'7", although the shorter one was heavier.  And yes, I put those logs on the mill with a cant hook and good ole determination(okay, I'm pigheaded....and not too bright). 


White Oak on the mill:



The stack of slabs cut to the customers request:


He wanted most of the slabs with at least one natural edge, and for them to be at least 10/4 thick,  I got the one on the bottom left hand side as a cutting bonus....lots of spalting on that one!
No problem, other then having to carry them to the trailer by myself....those dang things were heavy!  Think he was going to do some sanding on at least one side and make 'bookend' tables and maybe a few benches for around his place with them?  Sure would like to know if he has done anything with them.....



Thanks for looking!

Scott (I took a nap afterwards...yes I did) B

[Stevem]

Nice job Scott. 

Ugly old rotten logs sure look good when they get cut into boards !

[SDB777]

Your right there!  The outer layer about 2" deep all the way around was pretty soft, but them insides were as solid as I've ever seen.

I know the one piece I was given will make about 400-ish crosscut pen blanks....at a $1 each, well you get the idea   And I'll be hiding some for trading and my own use too!!!






Scott (think I'll call him see if his done anything with 'em yet) B

[Post Oakie]

Nice cutting.  Thanks for the post.  Shows what a person can do with a little determination.  One question, though.  You mentioned that the throttle was open almost all the way during some of the cuts.  My understanding is that mills should run at full throttle during the cuts, and that the feed rate should be adjusted to get smooth cuts.  Is there something different about the LT10 or the motor that makes it advisable to cut at less than full throttle?  Just curious.

[SDB777]

Nice cutting.  Thanks for the post.  Shows what a person can do with a little determination.  One question, though.  You mentioned that the throttle was open almost all the way during some of the cuts.  My understanding is that mills should run at full throttle during the cuts, and that the feed rate should be adjusted to get smooth cuts.  Is there something different about the LT10 or the motor that makes it advisable to cut at less than full throttle?  Just curious.

Nothing wrong with that question....simple answer?

I'm cheap, and I don't like to run any engine at full throttle.  I would think anything running wide open will wear faster then something that isn't.  Not sure what a replacement motor would cost, but it's an expense I'm not willing to pay this soon.





Scott (slow the push = slower the cut) B

[Stevem]

Just my 2 cents.

Full throttle on the control lever may not be "FULL THROTTLE" on the engine.  The factory should have set the engine at the torque peak not maximum RPM.  An engine will run for ever (except mine) at the torque peak and be more efficient.  Call the factory and get their input.   

[SDB777]

Briggs motor, but I couldn't tell you if it is their plastic cover (blingy cover) in front of the throttle lever.




Scott (needs an oil change anyway) B

[Stevem]

Also, you might check your bar on the 064.  If it's been pinched it might me dragging the saw down when it heats up. 

[Post Oakie]

You might check with WM.  Mills are geared to run at an optimal speed for the blade, and that is related to a specific engine rpm.  Stevem is right that full throttle at the control probably isn't the max that the engine could produce.  Engine will last longer (in terms of wood cut) if operating in its designed rpm.  Lugging the engine can also be hard on it.  You could figure this by putting a tachometer on the engine.  I get the best performance (straighter cuts, more board ft per blade) out of my Norwood portable sawmill when I've got the "pedal to the metal."  Best thing you can do is put good synthetic oil in the engine (after break in) and change it & the air filter on a regular basis.  Do you also run your chain saw at less than full throttle?

It'd just take too long to get through even a small log like this at less than full throttle!
http://i1238.photobucket.com/albums/ff490/dboyt54/Sawmill/_WhiteOak_02m.jpg

This is a good topic for discussion, and I'll be interested in seeing what other forum members think.  I've never seen it come up before.

[Buzz Sawyer]

Nice looking work there, I once built a mega cant hook that I still use to move larger logs... usually oak logs in excess of 30 inches....The dang thing weighs half as much as the log

[SDB777]

Also, you might check your bar on the 064.  If it's been pinched it might me dragging the saw down when it heats up. 

Hope it's not the bar, the freaking thing on has maybe 4hrs run time on it!  And it wasn't cheap!!



Scott (I'll look though) B

[Stevem]

Probably not then but to check the bar take it off and drag the chain through it, should wobble just a teensy little everywhere.

It no drag and it's not the carb then so much for cheap fixes. 

[Happycamper]

If I read correctly on the chart with the 10 Briggs that used on the LT10 the (torque Peak) is 2600 RPM's. From there it actually goes down.
                              Jim

[SDB777]

If I read correctly on the chart with the 10 Briggs that used on the LT10 the (torque Peak) is 2600 RPM's. From there it actually goes down.
                              Jim

Guess 2600RPM is all I need then   Haven't found a chunk of anything that I haven't been able to cut yet.....yet.  It's probably got more to do with keeping the bands sharp and the kerf clean then anything....that, and I'm not racing to get finished with a cut.



Scott (hobbies are fun) B

[Post Oakie]

Right about those blades.  What pitch/hook angle are you using?  Wide cuts, especially, you have to go slow.  One comment about your top photo... I've got to say, don't you have to level the mill a little closer than that before you start cutting?

[SDB777]

Actually, I've got a shopping list for HomeDepot to get filled today.

Concrete blocks, some cheapo 2x4s and 2x6s, and a LOT of Quikrete and then, some shovel time(I've already got a bunch of rebar here).  I have to make something stronger to hold the mill steady/level.
Had some 'sinkage' the other day while moving a 2500lb log onto the mill.  The front side, towards the camera that is photo'd way up there, sunk into the really saturated soil from all the rain we've had recently.  Needless to say, I was not going to cut boards with a built in twist!  Had to take it back off the mill.....had to be the heavy one, always the heavy one!?!?!

So I'm going to raise the entire mill off the ground and dig some footings, put some blocks in, and then think about making a slab for the entire mill to sit on.  And yes, I want the mill in this exact location...so just moving it to the side isn't really an option I'd like to consider(figure just raising it straight up will cause the least amount of alignment issues).  So my weekend is going to suck.....how about ya'lls?



BTW, I'm using WoodMizer blades with the 4* set.....








Scott (won't be that bad, and I get to work off some fat) B

[Post Oakie]

You'll be happier with it on a slab.  Get a roof over it and you'll be milling all night in all kinds of weather.  Hope the process is going smoothly.