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Author Topic: Old iron  (Read 39397 times)

Offline bandmiller2

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Old iron
« on: February 01, 2016, 04:01:43 PM »
Of all the sawmill projects setting up an old handset circular mill you bought in a pile is the toughest. If you are looking for one the saw is the deal maker or breaker. Simonds, up in my neighborhood, has been buying up saw and bit manufactures for years then making their parts obsolete, they are about the only game in town. The saw I have on my mill now is an old Diston I bought for $25.00, I'am an experienced scrounger and located A modest supply of bits but when their gone its a pretty has been. First thing clean off the saw and be sure you can buy bits and shanks. Up here in the northeast most of the older mill are a hodgepodge of parts, mine included. Sometimes the sawyer prefers one headblock over another or just has them. Please feel free to add your comments to help anyone thinking about rescuing an old mill from the scrap heap. Frank C.

Offline bandmiller2

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Re: Old iron
« Reply #1 on: February 03, 2016, 07:00:04 AM »
I would never try to discourage anyone from bringing an old circular mill back on line especially if you have the space for one. A bandmill can be a backyard venture, a circular mill is a mini industrial operation. Ideal situation is to find a complete unused mill under a roof all set up with power plant. If your so lucky take many pictures and measurements especially around the husk before you move it. Story will continue if your interested. Frank C.

Offline furu

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Re: Old iron
« Reply #2 on: February 03, 2016, 07:47:30 AM »
Sounds as if you are involved in the relocation of an old mill.  Please tell its story.
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Integrity is not just doing the right thing when no one is looking.
Integrity is doing the right thing when no one else will ever even know.

Offline bandmiller2

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Re: Old iron
« Reply #3 on: February 03, 2016, 07:04:43 PM »
My own mill is a somewhat historic mill in town the family were farmers and owned most of the land in town. As with so many mills its owner passed and various relatives used the mill until the foundation finally settled and it was abandoned. It was a wood husk, wood carriage, Chase mill made in Orange ma. I dismantled and moved the mill by myself by pulling it on a low trailer with a come along several sections at a time. The diesel is a Ford industrial 6 cyl. Dagenham made in England. I set the mill up on utility pole sections sunk in concrete at the bottom, figuring after I kick off someone can just cut them flush with a chainsaw. I converted the carriage to steel with pillow block bearings. Instead of the wood husk I changed to a Lane #1 cast iron husk mixed and matched parts from several mills to what I wanted. It was quite a trip but I enjoyed it and enjoy running it more than my band mill. I would say if your a machinery type person go for it if you find an old mill. Frank C.

Offline bandmiller2

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Re: Old iron
« Reply #4 on: February 07, 2016, 05:54:46 AM »
This applies to all mills be they circular or band. Logs are heavy (NS) everything should be done to keep them at a handy working hight. At the very least a dead/live deck same level as the carriage so they can be rolled on easily. I like the top of the knees (where the log/cant rests on the carriage) at a level of about 30" from where I stand. This makes setting the head blocks and working with the cant easier as you don't have to bend over. I like to work on a springy wood deck less tiring and warmer in the winter, the ground is cold. Frank C.

Offline bandmiller2

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Re: Old iron
« Reply #5 on: February 09, 2016, 06:36:12 AM »
The most dangerous setup, at least in my eyes, is where the sawyer stands at about the same level as the carriage knees and the saw arbor. Other than having to bend down to do everything a trip could put you in the saw. With the knees and arbor at waist hight  with a deck over the feed works you would have to try to get into the saw. I went one step further on my mill by putting a 2" pipe bar between me and the death wheel. My mill is a right hander the bar attaches to the left side of the husk up and a right angle stopping before the  the saw. If a fella slipped on snow , ice or big feet you couldn't fall into the saw. Its also handy to mount a throttle and clipboard. Frank C.

Offline backwoods sawyer

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Re: Old iron
« Reply #6 on: February 09, 2016, 11:31:27 AM »
Now that is a good point, safety starts with the set-up design.
Once a mill is set up, it takes much more to correct an issue like husk height.

The first mill I worked around was set up with a good guard and clear walkway for the sawyer. He had moved the mill to correct some design issue with the first set-up. One feature he had in both set-ups was a throttle rope that ran the full length of the shed, there was just enough slack in the rope that a twist of the hand gave him a good feel for the throttle from anywhere along the walkway, seems like he ran it with 351 Windsor out of a ford LTD. 

Offline bandmiller2

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Re: Old iron
« Reply #7 on: February 09, 2016, 07:28:41 PM »
Two things I wouldn't do without are a remote throttle and clutch lever in the sawyers box. If I'am doing something on the head blocks or loading a new log the diesel is at idle with the clutch disengaged. A carriage that creeps in neutral should not be tolerated. A flack screen keeps a lot of flying objects out of your face I use a section of fireplace screen suspended from the overhead so it can swing, but not hit the saw. A prudent sawyer will spend as little time in line with the saw as possible, and stand off to the side when making a cut. Frank C.

Offline bandmiller2

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Re: Old iron
« Reply #8 on: February 11, 2016, 06:00:09 AM »
Come on you old sawyers help me inspire the young guys to get these old circular mills back from the dead. Its a lot of work but theirs nothing like watching a nice log file past you through the big saw and feel the mist in your face with the engine up agenst the governor. A sawyer has not lived unless he has at least sawed a couple of logs on an old handset mill. Frank C.

Offline bandmiller2

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Re: Old iron
« Reply #9 on: February 13, 2016, 05:34:36 AM »
The easiest circular mill to set up is a Belsaw, the reason is the arbor is bolted under the ways (the two beams the carriage runs on). This makes a neat compact mill that can be driven from the back with a tractor PTO. It also makes it easy for one man to operate as you don't have to walk around the engine and belts to remove boards and slabs. But all is not rosy the carriage runs over the top of the arbor so it must have tiny wheels so it won't reduce the cut depth of your saw. What it boils down to is a log on a creeper. Belsaw is a fine mill for a part time sawyer or farmer but not heavy enough for commercial use, some may argue this but if you use both types you will know. Belsaw are popular mostly from name recognition and you will likely pay as much for the Bellsaw as a heavy mill. Frank C.

Offline bandmiller2

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Re: Old iron
« Reply #10 on: February 14, 2016, 06:10:01 AM »
There are two flavors of mills right hand and left. If you stand in the sawyers box facing the saw and the log passes on your right side its a right hand mill, if it passes on your left left hand mill. Most mills that use a dedicated engine are rt. hand, left hand mill are usually driven with a tractor PTO. Its a direction of rotation thing.

Offline bandmiller2

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Re: Old iron
« Reply #11 on: February 15, 2016, 07:02:44 AM »
OK, you found an old circular mill, the old guy will sell it but how much.?? This is hard to answer as different areas are well different. Up here in the northeast the standard price for a passable useable handset mill was $5000.00 but that was before band mills, they have almost driven the old circulars out of existence. Small millers want bands or swings their easier to set up and portable. Commercial guys want the joystick mills. Don't buy a rusty pile"O"crap it will be nothing but problems. I'am going out on a limb A useable mill that was under cover with engine $1500.00, no power deduct $500.00. I lucked out $500.00 for an under cover easy rebuild with a diesel. Don't rush the deals are out their if you look. Frank C.

Offline bandmiller2

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Re: Old iron
« Reply #12 on: February 16, 2016, 06:35:25 AM »
You bought the mill, whats next. If the mill is set up take many pictures especially around the husk. Measure distances between the saw and headblock knees and just how everything is set up. If you can move the mill in sections the larger the better. If the wood parts are in poor shape take them they will make handy patterns. Any mill worth owning is worth a roof over its head make plans for that when your setting it up. Frank C.

Offline bandmiller2

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Re: Old iron
« Reply #13 on: February 17, 2016, 06:22:44 AM »
Two very important considerations are location and foundation. A circular mill is best setup on a south facing side hill. The side hill allows you to place logs above the mill and roll them on the carriage without lifting. South facing makes the mill much more comfy in the winter when most milling is done. A good firm gravel base will allow you to work through the dreded mud season. There should be enough room for trucks to turn around. Hopefully sawdust and slabs will move down hill out of the way. next foundations. Cut in with your advice guys, I'am no authority, just someone who has done it and is avoiding working out in the cold. Frank C.

Offline bandmiller2

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Re: Old iron
« Reply #14 on: February 17, 2016, 07:18:11 PM »
A solid all weather foundation is probably the most important part of a mill. The mill should be up off the ground or a slab with enough space under it for sawdust conveyers or blowers and room to work. Room for cleanout is mandatory, everything ends up under the mill. Poured concrete that looks like jersey barriers is ideal. My mill is sitting on sections of utility pole sitting on concrete well below the frost line. Theirs not likely anyone in my family will take up milling when I'am gone so the poles can be cut just below ground level. Frank C.

Offline bandmiller2

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Re: Old iron
« Reply #15 on: February 19, 2016, 06:11:38 AM »
Close to the husk the post spacing is 4' beyond that 6'. The poles were set long then cut and notched with a chainsaw cross pieces bolted in the notches. My mill uses mine rail (small rail road track) set on 4X10" beams. All joints and wood was treated with the old black creasoat, I wisely squired away before the big ban. Various deck stains and preservers can be used but they are not as good. The more you cross brace and make things solid the better. Shims are almost mandatory as everything must be plumb and level. Frank C.

Offline bandmiller2

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Re: Old iron
« Reply #16 on: February 20, 2016, 06:48:15 AM »
Its not an easy job to align the carriage track. I have tried most ways string, stretched wire, laser but have always fallen back to sighting by eye. A circular mill must be "dead nuts" as to level and alignment. The great  sin is poor alignment causing the saw to heat. The saw is the mill diva and must be treated as such. The acid test for foundation is a heavy log and an accurate level on the carriage and slowly move it end to end should be no bubble movement. Frank C.

Offline bandmiller2

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Re: Old iron
« Reply #17 on: February 20, 2016, 07:02:09 PM »
Time moves on old babbit bearings on the arbor and carriage wheels are best left behind and antifriction bearings (ball or roller) substituted wherever possible. Arbors and carriage wheels should have zero endplay. I set up my mill so the end of the knees passes the saw with a 1/2"--5/8"clearance and the bottom of the knee just clears the saw collar. I cut down to 1" for the last board, many sawyers chicken out and cut the last piece 2", but your always a little nervous cutting the last one. Frank C.

Offline bandmiller2

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Re: Old iron
« Reply #18 on: February 21, 2016, 06:01:28 PM »
You will hear the term leed which is the amount that the saw is angled into the log or cant. If the saw was perfectly perpendicular to the log it would tend to take the path of least resistance and run out of the log. I can't tell you what the perfect leed will be for your mill it will be somewhere between 1/32" and 1/4". You literally have to cut and try, I would try 3/32" and go up or down from there. Too much leed and the saw will try to cut into the cant and pull it away from the last headblock. too little leed and the back of the saw will rub the cant heavily on gigback. The back of the saw should just tick the cant lightly on gigback. Frank C.

Offline bandmiller2

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Re: Old iron
« Reply #19 on: February 22, 2016, 07:37:04 PM »
Power, its hard to have too much on a circular mill. A serious mill should have at least 100 hp. preferably diesel. Belsaws and light mills can get away with less but you will have to slow your feed. A good governor is a must, as if your saw speed drops in the cut it can, and usually does, affect the cut and the can heat the saw plate. Torque is king with a mill engine electric, steam, and diesel in about that order with gasoline trailing behind. There are few big torquie gasoline engines today like the old Walkershaw or Hercules and if you can find one it will eat you out of house and home. If you can find A Murphy diesel it doesn't get much better. I have A Ford 6cyl. industrial diesel made by Dagenham in UK, its a little tired but I am too. Frank C.

Offline bandmiller2

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Re: Old iron
« Reply #20 on: February 23, 2016, 07:19:38 PM »
The saw bits especially the corners must be kept sharp and at the proper angle. Best to start with new bits and maintain the same angle. Its best to use a grinder like a Jockey to sharpen and keep the angles honest but if your a po-boy a file will turn the trick. For years I filed free hand with good results now I use a Dexter file guide it has a handle and hard rollers to keep the file perpendicular to the teeth and at the proper angle. I opted for a diamond grit file it puts a fine edge on the bits and can also do carbide. I don't swedge my bits, as a rule, just replace when they get filed down. Frank C.

Offline bandmiller2

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Re: Old iron
« Reply #21 on: February 24, 2016, 06:01:14 AM »
Hello, anyone out there ? you old sawyers chime in I must have said something that needs correction or the rest of the story. Frank C.

Offline HaroldCR - AKA Fla.-Deadheader

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Re: Old iron
« Reply #22 on: February 24, 2016, 07:40:36 AM »

 Most of it sounds good to me. Only thing is, you never went to Arkansas and looked at redneck engineering, where sawmills were set up on chunks of log sections just stood up on the ground.

 Had a neighbor that had a 395 Corley that couldn't saw a stick accurate longer than 9' long.  I made a deal to realign his mill and saw him an order of 17' 2X's if I could use the mill to saw out my house pattern. The track was only out about 1" and a half from straight and several wedges were used to get it all level enough to not need constant adjusting.

 On my #2 production Corley with foot pedal head block receder, I had dug concrete footers and laid up 3 layers of blocks filled with cement and 2 bolts set for 2" X 8" creosoted boards for the track to set on. Built the pit for the husk same way allowing for the blower to sit right at the bottom to throw the sawdust out an 8" pipe away from the mill.

Offline bandmiller2

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Re: Old iron
« Reply #23 on: February 24, 2016, 07:22:35 PM »
The best way to handle sawdust and slabs is to find a market and sell them. with the popularity of pellet stoves pellet makers will buy wood waste. Circular mill sawdust is actually small chunks unlike band saw dust that is fine. Myself I've always used sawdust conveyers to take the dust away from the mill. Blowers are probably handier but require considerable horse power to run. Old time sawyers hated sawdust and slabs and used any means to get them as far away from the mill as possible. Frank C.

Offline HaroldCR - AKA Fla.-Deadheader

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Re: Old iron
« Reply #24 on: February 24, 2016, 08:42:54 PM »

 Back in the '70's, I did have a dust doodler as the locals call them. Chain with no paddles on the Corley mongrel mill I bought and had to completely rebuild. Second Corley had the blower.

 Sold the slabs to the local charcoal kiln and cut some up to sell to locals for stove wood. We burnd slabs as long as we had a mill to cut them to keep our homes warm. 98% of what we cut was hardwood, Red and White Oak, Post Oak, hackberry, all sorts of Hickory, elm, Ash, etc.

Offline bandmiller2

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Re: Old iron
« Reply #25 on: February 25, 2016, 06:14:03 AM »
I've never been much for spending good folding money on mill accessories. My sawdust "doodler" is a length of 2 1/2" fire hose with the couplings cut off and clipper laced. It picks up the dust on the bottom belt under the saw and dumps it as it goes around the back pulley. The dust forms its own chute. Uses a fraction of a hp. to operate and its quiet. I've go a blower in stock but the belt works so good why complicate things and have to listen to it howl. Frank C.

Offline HaroldCR - AKA Fla.-Deadheader

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Re: Old iron
« Reply #26 on: February 25, 2016, 06:24:49 AM »

 Just sayin, Frank. Everything I had came with both purchases.

Offline bandmiller2

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Re: Old iron
« Reply #27 on: February 25, 2016, 07:56:07 PM »
Hal, what did you use to turn the logs and cants on the carriage.?? I've always just used flip up triangular pieces where you roll the cant to you and it slides bank on the carriage with a quarter turn. I have thought about a couple of log turners but the wedges work so well and fast I have little incentive. Frank C.

Offline Stevem

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Re: Old iron
« Reply #28 on: February 26, 2016, 01:21:52 AM »
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The best way to handle sawdust

Mushroom growers love circle sawdust from oak to grow their shrooms.  Probably other woods too but have no info.
Stevem
Because you can doesn't mean you should!

Offline bandmiller2

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Re: Old iron
« Reply #29 on: February 26, 2016, 06:14:16 AM »
I should try mushrooms in my dingy old cellar. Your right Stevem come to think of it I collect wild shrooms from rotting oak stumps. Frank C.

Offline HaroldCR - AKA Fla.-Deadheader

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Re: Old iron
« Reply #30 on: February 26, 2016, 08:05:17 AM »

 Believe it or not, I had 3 teenage boys helping at the mill. I used old engine oil and diesel to keep the blade clean, and, ran a small bead on the bunks of the carriage for 30" + logs. Used a 24" cant hook, mostly.

 People just don't realize how easy it is to spin a log with a dab of diesel/oil on the steel.  That power receder would do a good job pulling the log/cant back as I gigged back.

 I had a 50" blade and had to chainsaw the first slab off the log. I didn't like big logs. Now, with that oversized band mill, we cut up to 37" wide logs with little sweat. My Son kept a sharpened bar to slip under the 2" to 4" thick slabs and I would jam a 3/4" iron pipe roller in the slot and he would pull the slab onto rollers we built, right onto the trailer we hauled lumber to market with.

Offline bandmiller2

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Re: Old iron
« Reply #31 on: February 27, 2016, 06:54:14 PM »
The dreaded run away carriage can be a real problem. Most carriages weigh about a ton and a good sized log weighs a ton. You have the weight of an American car giging back at a good clip if your not paying attention or doing something else it reaches the end of the track. More than one carriage has kept going or at the least jarred the mill when it came to an abrupt stop. Your feed works is the usual brake. Both of my circular mills used leaf springs to give a softer landing. My current mill I buried a section of utility pole deep with a truck leaf spring attached to limit carriage travel, if you hit the end it just fires the carriage back with no shock to the mill frame. Frank C.

Offline HaroldCR - AKA Fla.-Deadheader

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Re: Old iron
« Reply #32 on: February 27, 2016, 08:01:47 PM »
 You ever see a power headblock receder in action, Frank ?  Fisher carriage on the first mill was a hand powered receder/ It was OK but nothing compared to that power jobbie .

Offline backwoods sawyer

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Re: Old iron
« Reply #33 on: February 27, 2016, 11:35:17 PM »
All the same concepts seem to apply.
We pulled out an end dogging carriage that had a top rail and a bottom rail and replaced it with an end dogging carriage that had two top rails and no bottom rail. The top rails were supported in the upper part of four "A" frame cement pillars that stood on the second floor and reached the fifth floor. The office over looking the mill floor was attached to the two middle "A" frames and swayed with the movements of the carriage.

Cables brake when used day in and day out and a runaway carriage with a 200hp DC motor driving it would spill your coffee ::) even with a pair of shocks mounted on each end of the rail and if you were lucky the slack cable would lay down between two block chippers and the four vertical bandmills (two opposing each other) with out hitting a chipper or a saw, If you were lucky!!!

The new rails sat on I beams laid on their side, the tracks had adjuster screws every few inches and they were painstakingly aligned with a laser, once it was all aligned the I beam's was filled up to the bottom of the rails with a cement based setting compound that held everything solid.

All of the chippers and bandmills moved in and out at the computers whim and were mounted on one flat way and one inverted "V" way. They used a "shoe" at each corner (air pressure on plastic pucks)(shear point) to hold then on the ways. Fastest way to have to  reset a chipper and change shoes was to overfeed a big block thru the block chippers.

Real good info keep it coming.
  
 

Offline bandmiller2

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Re: Old iron
« Reply #34 on: February 28, 2016, 05:56:57 AM »
Never seen a power recede in person only you tube vids. My old Chase D' Lane has a foot operated manual recede. 90% of my milling I only use a screw dog usually you can flip the cant if you leave it clamped and recede. Never seen a new automated mill in person, by the time they came into use lumber operations had moved west from here. Old growth pine is pretty much gone but we have some fine big w. pine second growth. (third?) Many loads of logs are trucked from Ma. north to Maine for milling. Frank C.

Offline HaroldCR - AKA Fla.-Deadheader

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Re: Old iron
« Reply #35 on: February 28, 2016, 08:20:05 AM »
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My old Chase D' Lane has a foot operated manual recede

 This sounds like what I had. Mash down on the foot lever and a rail on the outside of the carriage engaged a wheel that ran the headblocks back. I used it as much as I could figure out ways to do so.

Offline bandmiller2

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Re: Old iron
« Reply #36 on: February 29, 2016, 07:21:17 PM »
Its a sad state of affairs with bits and shanks today, we have really only one manufacturer, Simonds up in Fitchburg Ma. They have systematically bought out the competition and discontinued their bits and shanks. I have a nice old Diston 48" saw that will be useless when I run out of my modest stash of bits. If you have a saw that's hard to find bits and shanks for I would stock up when you can, their are some patterns that are on the edge. Saws last a long time most of mine are as old as I am and I'am crowding 70. Frank C.

Offline bandmiller2

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Re: Old iron
« Reply #37 on: March 04, 2016, 06:30:58 AM »
I've said it before but any mill worth owning should have a roof over its head. Its good for the machinery and the sawyer. Never work around a mill with ice and snow where your standing. Both my mills just have/had a roof with open sides. If you live in an area with cold winds put some sides on your mill and get as much advantage from the sun as you can. Its real nice especially if you run Detroit diesels to build a dog house for it to tame the noise. This lockable house is a good place to store tools. If you can, duct hot air from the engine house to the sawyers box and offbearer too. I'am talking northern mills you sunbelters have your own set of problems I know little of. A comfortable place to work make the days seem shorter. Have everything handy in its own place. Frank C.

Offline bandmiller2

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Re: Old iron
« Reply #38 on: March 06, 2016, 05:46:54 AM »
Tension in a saw is of the upmost importance. If your restoring an old mill take the saw to a good hammersmith  before you use it, that will eliminate many problems starting out. I'am no authority on this but think of saw tension as a slight cupping of the saw at rest that centrifugal force straightens out at its hammered speed. A saw with no or not enough tension will wobble snake and not cut straight. Never allow a slab wood chip or anything else rub on the saw plate, heat is the big enemy of saw tension. Most old mill saws are comfy around 600 rpm. If your driving your mill with a farm tractor direct, of course 540 would be your desired hammered speed. You have an allowance up or down supposedly of 50 rpm I like to hold it less than that. Frank C.

Offline bandmiller2

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Re: Old iron
« Reply #39 on: March 09, 2016, 06:22:15 AM »
Does size matter.? It does with saws, problem is you can only use less than half the diameter of the saw. If you start with a 50" saw cut that down to 25" reduce that by half your collar diameter plus a little clearance and your down to about 21". Its not as bad as it seems you should have no problem reducing even a large log. My first mill had a 44" saw and I can't remember ever finding a log I couldn't slice. Every slab cut reduces the diameter and that 21" is the widest board you can mill. Most places other than the pacific NW a 21" board is a wide board. Another factor is the larger the saw, as a rule, the harder to maintain and the more bits to sharpen and replace. Frank C.

Offline bandmiller2

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Re: Old iron
« Reply #40 on: March 11, 2016, 07:57:04 PM »
Its important to use an engine with a good governor. Auto gasoline engines are the least desireable mill power, no governors and they lack torque. There are two basic types of governors limiting speed and variable speed. Limiting speed just limits the max RPM wile a variable speed unit will hold whatever speed you set the throttle. Needless to say a variable speed gov. is what you want. I have heard you can use cruse control on a auto engine but I have no experience. Most over the road truck diesels use just a limiting speed gov. Farm tractors and diesel power units like they use in shovels and cranes have the variable speed governors that are desirable. I know nothing of computer or hydraulically governed engines. If you have a 6-71 Detroit diesel with a limiting speed governor and adjust the top speed down to 1800 rpm and hold the throttle open it should maintain that 1800 rpm for example. Frank C.

Offline bandmiller2

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Re: Old iron
« Reply #41 on: March 14, 2016, 07:52:49 PM »
There are several ways to turn logs and cants on the carriage. Modern mills have hydraulic turners that work well but tend to pound the carriage unless its built real heavy. Manual, you just grab your cant hook and flip it. Third, and the way I do it, is to use flip up wedges. With the wedges you flip them upright and pull the cant towards you it flops down on the wedges and slides back on the carriage with a quarter turn faster than I can explain it. Frank C.

Offline bandmiller2

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Re: Old iron
« Reply #42 on: March 25, 2016, 06:54:18 AM »
A circular mill engine is of upmost importance too small an engine will set the pace. If you have to slow the feed for the engine to catch up you don't have enough ponies. Two cycle diesels ( Detroit) are a good choice if you can hack the noise. Its popular in the fire service to have older fire trucks refurbished that usually involves an engine change as the EPA has driven the old Detroits off the highways. Companys that do this work seem to always have good running engines out back. Frank C.

Offline bandmiller2

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Re: Old iron
« Reply #43 on: April 05, 2016, 05:43:31 AM »
Line lasers, they help, especially if you don't mill a lot. Of course I'am talking about hand set manual mills I have no experience with the new stuff. My current mill has a mill designed laser that casts a red line zackry  where the saw will tread. Its especially helpful on slab cuts. If you saw every day your eye is as good as the laser. A cheap weak laser will wash out in the sunlight, in fact they all will if the suns bright. I would rate lasers as a nice to have item, but far from mandatory. Frank C.

Offline Leeroy

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Re: Old iron
« Reply #44 on: October 06, 2017, 05:33:01 AM »
Frank I just wanted to let you know how informative this thread is for me.

Offline joasis

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Re: Old iron
« Reply #45 on: October 06, 2017, 06:17:20 AM »
This sounds like what I had. Mash down on the foot lever and a rail on the outside of the carriage engaged a wheel that ran the headblocks back. I used it as much as I could figure out ways to do so.

My Meadows #1 had a foot operated power receder also. It allowed for really fast turns.
Ladwig Construction
Hennessey, Oklahoma
    405 853 1563

If anyone has any issues, I can be reached at the number above, anytime.

Offline joasis

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Re: Old iron
« Reply #46 on: October 06, 2017, 06:19:51 AM »
Its a sad state of affairs with bits and shanks today, we have really only one manufacturer, Simonds up in Fitchburg Ma. They have systematically bought out the competition and discontinued their bits and shanks. I have a nice old Diston 48" saw that will be useless when I run out of my modest stash of bits. If you have a saw that's hard to find bits and shanks for I would stock up when you can, their are some patterns that are on the edge. Saws last a long time most of mine are as old as I am and I'am crowding 70. Frank C.

One of the reasons I sold the Meadows. It was a 56 inch blade, and the selection of bits was limited, plus I was no expert at sawing.

In Oklahoma, circle mills are really scarce, especially in the area of the state I am in.
Ladwig Construction
Hennessey, Oklahoma
    405 853 1563

If anyone has any issues, I can be reached at the number above, anytime.