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Author Topic: Hand.cutting.keyways  (Read 10228 times)

Offline HaroldCR - AKA Fla.-Deadheader

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Hand.cutting.keyways
« on: January 19, 2019, 07:45:38 AM »
Need.2.different.sizes.in.a.steel.single.3".long.X.1".ID.coupler
Ideas?
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Offline Ox

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Re: Hand.cutting.keyways
« Reply #1 on: January 19, 2019, 08:50:35 AM »
Without access to a machine shop the only thing I can come up with is the edge of a bastard file.  It'll take a long time but the price is right.
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Offline joasis

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Re: Hand.cutting.keyways
« Reply #2 on: January 19, 2019, 01:26:08 PM »
If you have a lathe, you can drag cut them. The lathe chuck holds the part and lock the spindle, and then crank the carriage back and forth with a sized took in a boring bar holder.
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Offline HaroldCR - AKA Fla.-Deadheader

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Re: Hand.cutting.keyways
« Reply #3 on: January 19, 2019, 02:15:06 PM »
I believe the piece of steel is too hard to cut the keyway. A file just barely makes a mark.  ::)

It wasn't all that hard to turn in my home built lathe. I have thought about milling a spot on the side and then drilling across to make a groove in the shafts to act as a key with a capscrew. Poor old drill press chuck is nearly ruined by using a milling cutter in it for other projects.

Rigged up an external keyboard that mostly works, so, I might try to do a photo upload of the bastard swingblade mill conversion.
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Offline bandmiller2

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Re: Hand.cutting.keyways
« Reply #4 on: January 19, 2019, 05:52:28 PM »
You could use whats called a Dutchman if the pieces are flush drill a hole half in the shaft drive in a round pin. Also an angle grinder and cut 0ff wheel and a shitload of patience. I have done it with a good file. Frank C.
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Offline HaroldCR - AKA Fla.-Deadheader

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Re: Hand.cutting.keyways
« Reply #5 on: January 19, 2019, 06:19:58 PM »
I have cut several keyways on shafts and a couple in pulleys, etc. I have mini file set and a very small coldchisel. Metal is not easily obtained, out here in the jungle, hence, the harder than normal piece of 2" I have at hand. Coupler is 1" ID.

The end drilling and round pin sounds interesting. I need to harness up to 30 HP, cutting hard wood, at times.

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Offline Ox

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Re: Hand.cutting.keyways
« Reply #6 on: January 20, 2019, 08:43:43 AM »
How about grinding a small flat spot on the shaft and driving a gib key in between the shaft and pully/sprocket/coupler/whatever to lock it on the shaft?  The gib key will swage itself some and provide pretty good holding power I reckon.
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K.I.S.S. - Keep It Simple Stupid
Use it up, wear it out, make it do or do without
1989 GMC 3500 4x4 diesel dump and plow truck, 1964 Oliver 1600 Industrial with Parsons loader and backhoe, 1986 Zetor 5211, Cat's Claw sharpener, single tooth setter, homemade Linn Lumber 1900 style mill, old tools

Offline HaroldCR - AKA Fla.-Deadheader

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Re: Hand.cutting.keyways
« Reply #7 on: January 20, 2019, 01:52:25 PM »
Thinking about something very similar, doing 2 flat spots on the gearbox shaft. Real problem is inside the coupler. Even thinking about drilling through and doing a hard bolt.
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Offline Crusarius

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Re: Hand.cutting.keyways
« Reply #8 on: January 20, 2019, 05:23:32 PM »
Could just do a square shaft instead of attempting a keyway.

Grind it square then drill a hole and square it out with a file.
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Offline Ox

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Re: Hand.cutting.keyways
« Reply #9 on: January 21, 2019, 09:41:14 AM »
Weld it.  8)
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K.I.S.S. - Keep It Simple Stupid
Use it up, wear it out, make it do or do without
1989 GMC 3500 4x4 diesel dump and plow truck, 1964 Oliver 1600 Industrial with Parsons loader and backhoe, 1986 Zetor 5211, Cat's Claw sharpener, single tooth setter, homemade Linn Lumber 1900 style mill, old tools

Offline HaroldCR - AKA Fla.-Deadheader

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Re: Hand.cutting.keyways
« Reply #10 on: January 21, 2019, 04:52:18 PM »
Naah, Ox. Drilled and tapped the stub shaft/coupler for 5/16 hard bolt. Need to recess the bolt head. Probably do that to the gearbox when I remove it, for more drilling, adding features to the arm that gear box bolts up to.
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