Starting a search, Ideas... UPDATE!!

[A.O.]

Ok, my Stihl 260 that I've had for years has been acting up so I finally took it to a Stihl dealer, they told me that the ethanol killed it! Said it needs carb, lines, plug, filter etc, they want $240 to fix it so I'm thinking a new saw might be in my future.
I am a heavy duty homeowner/farm ranch guy not a commercial cutter. I have a little Echo top handle for small stuff, and an MS362 for larger stuff, and at 63 I don't want any bigger. I'm looking for (to me) a mid sized saw to replace the 260. Maybe n 18 or 20 inch bar. I'll cut maybe a dozen or two trees a year to feed the sawmill and the woodstove.
I've not bought or even looked at chainsaws out on the market for at least 5 years so I'm not sure what is out there or Gov regs concerning them so I'm looking for ideas and advice.

Have done Stihls or years, but I keep hearing the Husqvarna's are a decent saw and I also like my Echo. So I'm all ears for a while here. Is a pro saw worth the expense for the small amount I'm cutting? Oh, and I'd like to keep it between $300 & $400.

Whatcha guys think? 

[Crusarius]

This is my personal opinion and I know it will ruffle some feathers but here goes.

Find a new mechanic. The saw is new enough it was designed to run ethanol fuel. that is not what killed it. The mechanic obviously does not know what he is talking about so he blames the fuel.

I have always run ethanol in everything I own. I have never had any failures of any kind. and the fuel sits in them more than I like to admit.

Did he say whether your cylinders were scored? or what the final failure mode actually was? Or did he just say it was bad fuel?

Please lets not get into the lifelong ethanol debate. its been hashed out an d beat to death way to damn many times all over the internet. This is just my personal opinion take it for what it is.

[A.O.]

This is my personal opinion and I know it will ruffle some feathers but here goes.

Find a new mechanic. The saw is new enough it was designed to run ethanol fuel. that is not what killed it. The mechanic obviously does not know what he is talking about so he blames the fuel.

I have always run ethanol in everything I own. I have never had any failures of any kind. and the fuel sits in them more than I like to admit.

Did he say whether your cylinders were scored? or what the final failure mode actually was? Or did he just say it was bad fuel?

Please lets not get into the lifelong ethanol debate. its been hashed out an d beat to death way to damn many times all over the internet. This is just my personal opinion take it for what it is.

A second opinion might just be a good idea. This is one of the better Stihl dealers in the area, but who knows right. Apparently they have some sort of computer testing that will tell exactly whats wrong with it but...

He said nothing about cyl scoring, just basically the fuel system.

The saw just got to where I couldn't keep it running..

[bandmiller2]

AO, theirs a guy on YouTube  "Steve's small engine saloon" he goes through everything to do with saws. Get a carb kit and lines their cheap and watch Steve you can do it all yourself and have the satisfaction and a wad of cash in your pocket. Good older saw are worth fixing their not burdened with the new EPA crap. Frank C.

[furu]

It is true and  factual that ethanol will gum up the carb if old mix is left around very long. (definition of long is the question that people argue about) 
Just don't leave it for more than a month (my saw shop says 2 weeks).  Mix up no more than 1 gallon at a time.
The lines will not be effected by the ethanol as that problem has been taken care of years ago.
Yes,  I am anti ethanol in my saws but if you go through the mix fast enough my shop says that there is nothing wrong with it.  (see above)
Fuel mix age is the enemy. 
The old style lines are eaten by ethanol but a 260 should not have that problem.  Even if it did just replace them. Very easy.

Now the carb. 
If you left old mix sit in the saw for a while or got bad fuel the carb could be gummed up.
Either rebuild it or buy a new carb,  They are not that expensive.  Cheaper than a new saw and not hard to do yourself.

If it will run and then keeps shutting down when warm look at the low speed mixture adjustment.
Does it start and run and then die when warm?

If you give up on the saw, get another MS 26X (I think the 262 is the newest model. 
I was against the new computer saws until I had to replace my climbing saw last July.  I love the little sucker. (201T)

[Crusarius]

I bought a 261cm last year. I have run plenty of saws being in the fire service and by far my absolute favorite has been the 261 cm. best torque saw I have ever run. Starts great as long as you do not run it out of fuel.

I do not understand why everyone is so afraid of the M-tronic. The technology has been proven after years in cars. It was just downsized to fit in the saw.

[A.O.]

Ok, well after listening to you guys I think I'll go collect my saw, tear it down and see what I can come up with.

I have see a couple videos of Steve's small engine saloon, I go look some more

Anyplace you guys recommend for parts? I know they don't sell the saws on line, I'll have to see about parts.

Crusarius, what did that 261 cost?

[A.O.]

And should I stay with Stihl parts? Here is an after market kit on amazon for like 15 bucks.

https://www.amazon.com/Hayskill-Carburetor-WT-194-1-Chainsaws-11211200611/dp/B07MFVTHSJ/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?hvadid=198261537745&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9010457&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=b&hvrand=10150494505067992792&hvtargid=kwd-302156046889&keywords=stihl+ms260+chainsaw+parts&qid=1554307849&s=gateway&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1

Or is it junk!??

[Crusarius]

From what I understand the aftermarket stuff is good.

I think I am about $600 into the 261? I don't remember but it was not cheap. still worth every penny. can't believe how it runs.

[A.O.]

From what I understand the aftermarket stuff is good.

I think I am about $600 into the 261? I don't remember but it was not cheap. still worth every penny. can't believe how it runs.

Thanks..

[furu]

Wow I was thinking more like 45-60 for a carb replacement.  That price is almost scary cheap. 
On the flip side for that price you can't go wrong unless it implodes and goes into the cylinder and damages it.

[A.O.]

Wow I was thinking more like 45-60 for a carb replacement.  That price is almost scary cheap. 
On the flip side for that price you can't go wrong unless it implodes and goes into the cylinder and damages it.

Yeah, scary cheap was my thought also, heck Stihl wants $35 just for the air cleaner

[Crusarius]

I thought the carb from stihl was only $35. but that may have been a long time ago.

[A.O.]

I thought the carb from stihl was only $35. but that may have been a long time ago.

Picked up the saw today, they want $103 for a csrb

[furu]

Still cheaper than the 240 they said first.  That is a lot of labor for a carb swap.

[A.O.]

Still cheaper than the 240 they said first.  That is a lot of labor for a carb swap.

$56 is labor, the rest parts..

I got the saw back in pieces, I hope I can figure out how to put it together..

[Ox]

They did that on purpose to try to extort you into paying them for work.

The aftermarket cheap chinese parts are just fine.  I've run a lot of those $15 or $20 carbs and have had no issues whatsoever and they run perfect.

https://www.huztl.net/ST-Chainsaw-Parts-c2871.html  This place has unbelievable prices for just about anything anybody would want to do with a chainsaw. 

[A.O.]

Or I could buy this carb!!   

https://www.ebay.com/itm/fully-adjustable-Carburetor-for-Stihl-MS260-024-026-Chainsaws-replaces-WT-194-/321873623380

[A.O.]

They did that on purpose to try to extort you into paying them for work.

The aftermarket cheap chinese parts are just fine.  I've run a lot of those $15 or $20 carbs and have had no issues whatsoever and they run perfect.

https://www.huztl.net/ST-Chainsaw-Parts-c2871.html  This place has unbelievable prices for just about anything anybody would want to do with a chainsaw.

Probably going to try one, got to figure out which one is the correct replacement, they all say for an MS260, AND they all are of different configurations...

[Ox]

That $2,000 chainsaw carb must have been popular - says it's currently out of stock.

[A.O.]

So I could build you a house, but small engines are not my forte!
As I said I got this thing back in pieces so I'm trying to find a video or other info on how to put it all back together. I'll order one of those little aftermarket kits that covers all this stuff and see how I do with it.. I should know this stuff anyway and I hope I can learn this old dog a new trick! wish me luck! I'm pretty mechanically inclined so I'm not too worried.

[A.O.]

Ok, so my saws carb just has 2 screws, "L" and "LA" ,so there is no way to adjust the max engine speed. There is another style carb that has the "LA" screw, AND a "H"&"L" screw that is more adjustable, my saw does have the provisions in the case to use either kind. Is there any real good need for more adjustments or am I just asking for trouble changing?

[furu]

You can find places to  download a digital manual. 

I have the IPL and service manuals for all my Stihls.  I have it for the 026 the older version of the 260 but not the 260.  Over on Arboristsite There is a individual named:backhoelover who might be able to help. 

Link to his profile
https://www.arboristsite.com/community/members/backhoelover.96329/

I can certainly send you a digital copy for the 026 but I would suggest you try to get the 260 manual first.  It will be a great help.  Just how far into pieces did this shop tear it down?  Sounds as if they are just being vindictive.  I would look for a different shop. 

A good technician is worth his weight in gold.  I don't know when the last time I got charged for any labor on my Stihls.  If I have an issue that I can't resolve I go into "Mike" and he say lets go back to the bench and I will show what you have to do to fix that.  They order anything I need if they don't have the parts in stock

Yes I do throw my business to them and I could get some stuff a little cheaper elsewhere but I want to support this dealer and I NEVER get ripped off by them.  When I replaced my climbing saw last summer I could have saved 25 bucks on an about $750 purchase (with tax) if I bought it down the road but they threw in two spare chains which were more than the price difference.  There was an issue with the very tiny, tiny fuel solenoids (computer saw) and when I went in we went into the back and replaced them on the spot.  I did not have to drop it off and come back later.  To me great service is nearly impossible to put a price on.

If you are not a member over on Arboristsite or can't get it to work let me know and I can try to get the manuals for you.  If they have it in too small a group of parts then you might be better off waiting for the manuals instead of breaking something.  Either way it will be a good experience.

EDIT
Found the direct link for the beg for manuals thread.  see below

https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/beg-for-manuals.220957/

[furu]

Ok, so my saws carb just has 2 screws, "L" and "LA" ,so there is no way to adjust the max engine speed. There is another style carb that has the "LA" screw, AND a "H"&"L" screw that is more adjustable, my saw does have the provisions in the case to use either kind. Is there any real good need for more adjustments or am I just asking for trouble changing?

Technically you don't adjust the max engine speed with the H screw.  The L and the H screw adjust the idle and WOT mixture.  The LA adjusts the low idle and has to be done after the L screw is adjusted.  Low (idle mixture) can have more impact on starting and continuing to run than I can describe.  The H screw adjusts the WOT mixture which does directly effect max RPM.  Get it too lean the RPM goes WAY too high and you burn the cylinder/blow up the saw.  Too lean you lose power and bad exhaust and etc.  Some folks are great on tuning by ear for WOT others use a tachometer.  My ear almost always is too rich (probably because I am afraid to get it too lean) thus I use a tachometer.
"Mike" can set it within 100 RPM at 13000 RPM by ear.  Amazes me everytime.

As far as not having a H screw that is a new one.  Now was that the original carb or the one that you are looking at getting?

Went back and reread your post.  The saw has the "H" hole but not the adjustment on the carb?  Are you the original owner? Has the carb been replaced before?

[A.O.]

Technically you don't adjust the max engine speed with the H screw.  The L and the H screw adjust the idle and WOT mixture.  The LA adjusts the low idle and has to be done after the L screw is adjusted.  Low (idle mixture) can have more impact on starting and continuing to run than I can describe.  The H screw adjusts the WOT mixture which does directly effect max RPM.  Get it too lean the RPM goes WAY too high and you burn the cylinder/blow up the saw.  Too lean you lose power and bad exhaust and etc.  Some folks are great on tuning by ear for WOT others use a tachometer.  My ear almost always is too rich (probably because I am afraid to get it too lean) thus I use a tachometer.
"Mike" can set it within 100 RPM at 13000 RPM by ear.  Amazes me everytime.

As far as not having a H screw that is a new one.  Now was that the original carb or the one that you are looking at getting?

Went back and reread your post.  The saw has the "H" hole but not the adjustment on the carb?  Are you the original owner? Has the carb been replaced before?

First to your beg for a manual link. I am a member over there and just did my begging, thanks!

I am the original owner of this saw and this is the original carb. And I am finding that there is NOT a single screw replacement carb as I thought, not that I have found yet anyway.

Here is a link to my owners manual and on page 45-46 it shows the two different carb arrangements

https://www.stihlusa.com/webcontent/cmsfilelibrary/instructionmanuals/ms260_manual.pdf

Maybe I missed it but who is Mike you refer to, the mechanic at your shop?

And I just found a video instruction on rebuilding my carb, might order a kit and try it.

EDIT TO ADD: And WOW, that guy is quick, I already have the manuals...