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Author Topic: Biomizer Sawdust Burner  (Read 184200 times)

Offline JP Sinclair

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Re: Biomizer Sawdust Burner
« Reply #100 on: March 25, 2008, 11:36:44 AM »
Great pics and feedback kirk , keep it coming.  I hand it to WM, they've always been great to work with on the very few bugs in my sawmill.  The service tech that makes the nationwide run once a year is a great service, I wonder if they are considering doing something similar with the boilers?

Offline Kirk Allen

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Re: Biomizer Sawdust Burner
« Reply #101 on: March 25, 2008, 12:12:55 PM »
Right now there focus is going to be on the Industrial boiler.  1 Million BTU  :o  Once they get all the bugs worked out on they they will shift to the co-generation side of things. 

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Offline Kirk Allen

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Re: Biomizer Sawdust Burner
« Reply #102 on: March 27, 2008, 07:37:08 AM »
So how are things going with your burner Seppi?  Got it up and running yet?

WM is suppose to be back out today to fix the programing issues on the ash stir and ash aguer.  Hope this rain slows down.  :(
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Offline seppi

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Re: Biomizer Sawdust Burner
« Reply #103 on: March 27, 2008, 07:41:39 AM »
It's chilly here this AM. 2*F--- Kirk, is it true that your unit went down again after WM was there?? I talked with Boyd about ??? I had & got good answers. He said that the wok was a problem again. I have been busy with orders & have not been able to finish the hook-ups. Will be progressing ASAP.---- Later.  SORRY Kirk, I just read my E mail & was informed of your situation.
« Last Edit: March 27, 2008, 08:07:34 AM by seppi »

Offline Kirk Allen

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Re: Biomizer Sawdust Burner
« Reply #104 on: March 27, 2008, 08:41:54 AM »
Long story, but yes we are down again.  Turns out during the efforts to get the ash auger working automatically the ash stir quit working. 

Not knowing this we fired the unit back up and all "appeared" good.  I select the ash auger "manual" button for 20 seconds an hour to remove the ash, but since it was not stirring the ash keeping it flat on the bottom of the combustion chamber it built up like a snow drift all around the edges.  What I suspect happen is once the ash built up around the edges, almost like a ramp, the air flow direction was significantly changed and I think it caused the wok to cock to one side, thus drastically changing the performance.  It appears that once it cocked to one side the fuel burn and/or propane was cooking the side of it and I suspect that warped it enough to fall, although this time I caught it before it fell. 

Realize this is speculation but after years of jet propulsion work and understanding combustion dynamics and air flow I would bet dinner this is what happen.

When the ash built up on the edges, again almost like a ramp, it blocked the fuel port enough that the fan packed more sawdust/rice mix into the feed hole causing it to eventually stop running.  Problem with that is even though its not getting sawdust the propane kicks on and tries to assist and at the same time the fuel auger is turning trying to give it the fuel its calling for and since the hole is blocked, it packs it in tighter than freshly kiln cooked bricks.  It packed it in so hard that it broke the weld on the auger and torqued the auger like you wouldn't believe. 

When I told Seth about the auger I said, "you wont believe what this auger looks like".  He responded with basically an assurance that he has seen several lunched augers. 

Looking at everything that has happen with my unit I suspect the bottom line contributor started with the ash auger not working at all in automatic. The first problems were solved to a degree when I started manually removing the ash.  The problem was lack of experience with the unit to know how long to run the ash auger in manual to prevent the ash build up that I believe led to the wok issues.  I think it just built up to the point it changed the air flow and when that happen, I am betting the significant jet blast created from the burn is what effected the wok.  Point being, keep very little ash in the bottom. 

I am confident that once the ash auger and stir are working the way they are suppose to, and a good ash auger setting is determined for what ever fuel your burning all will be good.  Seth suggested not bunring any of the rice hulls as he thought that may be a contributing factor because of their high ash content.  I believe that if the ash is the problem then the fix is having the ash auger and stir work they way they were designed, which looks like today will be fixed.  That and considering the initial problems accured with sawdust I dont think the type of fuel is the problem.  Regardless, I will cease using the rice hulls once this hopper is done and go straight to sawdust and see what happens. 

Having brought a prodcut through development, R&D, manufacturing, distribution and eventually to international sales I can say these bumps are minor and to be expected.  Thats why they called us testers. ;D  They want feedback and I will do my best to provide it based on my experience. 

One thing I clearly identified and I thank my experince as a jet mechanic in the AF for this one, is that when the unit is working properly the water temps are achieved fairly quick but being able to tie all the indicators on the display together paint a pretty clear picture for me. 

The first indicator that I had a problem was from my PC.  Watching the controls I could see that the unit was burning hotter and I had to keep backing the feed rate down.  That should not have happen since it was all the same fuel.  Even with the fuel set down to 15% I was still hitting 1250 degrees in the combustion chamber. My ceramic temps were a consistant 750F.  The other indicator was the water temp was very slow to rise. Knowing the combination of having to turn the fuel rate way back, slow water temp rise even though I had high combustion temps, I shut it down and went out and had a look.  That is when I found the ash ramped up around the inside edges, the wok tipped to one side, and while typing this I now realize, the flame was probably being diverted directly onto the probe after it deflected off the wok causing the combustion temp issue and only providing heat to one side of the boiler, thus the slow water temp rise in relation to combustion temp.   

With that, stay tuned for future updates!
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Offline JP Sinclair

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Re: Biomizer Sawdust Burner
« Reply #105 on: March 27, 2008, 11:24:07 AM »
Wow, good stuff Kirk.  Despite the headaches, I think it will all get worked out.  I'm sure WM is already making design mods. 

Offline Clive C

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Re: Biomizer Sawdust Burner
« Reply #106 on: March 27, 2008, 12:44:09 PM »
Sounds like you got the lemon Kirk  8) 8)  From what I've read of your experiences with it I guess I don't want one anytime soon.  Give em a few years to work the bugs out and they oughta be O.K.

Offline Kirk Allen

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Re: Biomizer Sawdust Burner
« Reply #107 on: March 27, 2008, 01:13:00 PM »
Rest assured the fix arrived today! 

I had the boiler ready to come off in about 10 minutes and when Seth got here we lifted it up and put a new cone in that has a 2" lip around it so it cant shift or fall in.  had it all put back together and running in 30 minutes. 

The reason I think we are all fixed is the Ash stir is working the way it is suppose to and I will manualy auger the ash out but the most amazing part of todays fix is how the unit is running. 

I had never seen ceramic temps above 800F.  We went to lunch and let the unit run and when I got back it had just shut off and the ceramic temps were 1100F  :o

A quick phone call and Seth assured me that is a good thing! 

I suspect with the new cone that has the large 2" rim around it has ensured a perfect seal and ALL the heat is staying where its suppose to, as is evident from the cermic temps and the fact my water temp comes up much faster. 

All indications are its running better than ever before, which is a huge plus! 

As far as any design mods, I think the design over all is right on.  I do like the new cone as its clearly made a big difference but other than that the minor ash problem, which rice does have more ash, will be fixed when they get the computer bugs worked out.  From what I understand, for what ever reason none of the other units are having the auto ash auger problem that I am but thats OK. I got one of the first, if not the first units so challenges like this are expected.   
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Offline Kirk Allen

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Re: Biomizer Sawdust Burner
« Reply #108 on: March 27, 2008, 03:37:36 PM »
I have been through three run cycles since my last post.  Went out and checked everything and looks like we have not just a fix, but a major improvement in performance.  When the unit cools down to the 160 water temp setting, which is when it turns back on, the cermics are just over 800F, which means virtually no propane is getting used during the restarts. 

I am going to turn down the water temps some more since we are in the low 40's through the night and see how things go.  High limit of 170 and low limit of 150.  That means that the unit will turn on when the boiler temp drops to 150F and turn back off at 170F.

Anyone else using a boiler for heat?  It would be interesting to know what temps your systems run at.

I am thinking, (I know thats dangerous) when I get the radiant heat in my shop it will take very little to heat it once its up to temp. 

Side note on money saved - Our electric bill was $38 dollars less this month and the only change was about 13 days of Biomizer use heating our hot water!  I am guessing it will save us at least $50 a month in electric, which equates to at least $600 a year.  I cant wait to see what we save on propane!  :o ;D
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Offline Frank Pender - AKA "Tail Gunner"

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Re: Biomizer Sawdust Burner
« Reply #109 on: March 28, 2008, 11:14:08 AM »
I have two Taylors, one for the house and a second for the kiln.  For the house, I have a heat exchanger for part and radiant in cement for the other (a newer portion).  The house has the most used waterheater attached as well.  I just purchased a third furnace for one of the rentals on the Tree Farm.  It is used but in great shaped for $1,200 dollars.  It will cost another $800 for pipe and an exchanger. 

Offline Kirk Allen

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Re: Biomizer Sawdust Burner
« Reply #110 on: March 28, 2008, 11:08:40 PM »
WM found the computer bug that was causing the auger to not work in auto. They are going to send me a chip to install the new program and we should be good to go.



Unit is working better than ever before!  Fuel auger set at 15% with 30% air.  Combustion temps maintaining a steady 1270 F with ceramic temps of 900-1000.  House is nice and cozy 72 F  ;D

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Offline Kirk Allen

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Re: Biomizer Sawdust Burner
« Reply #111 on: March 29, 2008, 12:40:42 PM »
Checked the Biomizer this morning and its working like a champ.  Used less than 1/4 of a hopper of fuel in 24 hours!  Ash contect would fit in a quart milk jug!  :o
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Offline adk patroller

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Re: Biomizer Sawdust Burner
« Reply #112 on: March 29, 2008, 05:26:42 PM »
Kea,

Most radiant floor systems use a mixing valve to keep watertemps in the 120-130 degree range.
+

Hostetter's Wood 4-$ale

Offline Kirk Allen

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Re: Biomizer Sawdust Burner
« Reply #113 on: March 29, 2008, 08:08:55 PM »
When I put in the shop floor I will use the radiant heat in the floor and a mixing valve. 

We are going to install a mixing valve on our water heater for the house as right now its way to hot. 
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Offline Kirk Allen

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Re: Biomizer Sawdust Burner
« Reply #114 on: March 30, 2008, 10:45:39 AM »
Hey Frank,
Do you have a back up furnace in the event your wood boiler goes down? 

I am looking at the forcasted temps over the next three days and our low is only 52 F so I am thinking of shutting the unit down and let the propane furnace fill in for those days.  Next temp drop is Wed of this week and they are calling for 29 F so I would fire it back up for that. 

If you do have a back up furnace, at what point do you decide to stop burning wood, if at all? 
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Offline Frank Pender - AKA "Tail Gunner"

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Re: Biomizer Sawdust Burner
« Reply #115 on: March 30, 2008, 11:25:09 AM »
Kirk, we have no other form of heat, but the Taylor furnace.  About the only time I do not have a good heavy fire going is when I take the propane torch and burn out the chimney that is 16' tall.   ;D ;D ;D

I also have it set up so that I can plug into one of my generators to operate the pumps, fans and heat exchanger in the house.

Offline Kirk Allen

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Re: Biomizer Sawdust Burner
« Reply #116 on: March 31, 2008, 08:31:06 AM »
I am guessing the burner only kicked on a couple times through the night as there was virtualy no drop in the sawdust this morning.  It was 52 this morning so not much demand on it and I noticed the cermic temps have dropped down to about 350-400 range so figured it has not been on for a while. 

Seems like the new wok has solved all the problems I was having! 
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Offline JP Sinclair

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Re: Biomizer Sawdust Burner
« Reply #117 on: March 31, 2008, 12:29:06 PM »
1/4 of a hopper sounds pretty good for the performance Kirk, great stuff.  My outdoor boiler usually runs a reservior temp of 160 - 180.  That runs the heat for the house, breezeway, 2 car garage, 20X30 resaw shop and the 16X30 kiln. 

Offline Kirk Allen

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Re: Biomizer Sawdust Burner
« Reply #118 on: March 31, 2008, 12:57:44 PM »
JP, thats a lot of stuff being heated.  What size boiler system do you have? 

Would having an aditional insulated water storage help?  I was thinking along the lines of having another 2-300 gallons of well insulated storage but not sure if the extra fuel needed to heat that would be offset by the down time or not.  Huge learning curve for sure. 
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Offline Kirk Allen

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Re: Biomizer Sawdust Burner
« Reply #119 on: April 01, 2008, 08:17:57 AM »
Seppi, are you up and running yet?
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Offline Kirk Allen

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Re: Biomizer Sawdust Burner
« Reply #120 on: April 01, 2008, 05:00:13 PM »
Got an e-mail today from Bret, the computer tech at WM and you want to talk about service! 

Instead of shipping me the chip to program my Biomizer he is going to personaly bring it to make sure it does in fact fix things. 

Again, hats off to the best service in the industry. 
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Offline Kirk Allen

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Re: Biomizer Sawdust Burner
« Reply #121 on: April 02, 2008, 09:04:13 AM »
FIXED ;D   

Upgraded program and all is working automatically now!  No more ash augering in manual.  :)

One advantage to haveing gone through the manual process is I have figured out the ball park time settings so now that the auto is working I can plug the disired cycle times in and all should be good! 

It was also good to hear that I was not the only one having a problem. 

Current fuel load is set at 15% fuel feed, 30% air and maintaining 1300+ temps provided the ceramic temps is above 800.  When the ceramic temps are lower my combustion temps are in the 1200's. 
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Offline Frank Pender - AKA "Tail Gunner"

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Re: Biomizer Sawdust Burner
« Reply #122 on: April 02, 2008, 02:52:45 PM »
You might want to try and figure out a system like the oil folks do with degree days of burning and such.  That way you can set the puter for the whole year.

Offline Kirk Allen

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Re: Biomizer Sawdust Burner
« Reply #123 on: April 02, 2008, 05:21:40 PM »
 ???  I dont think I am going to get that detailed.  :laugh:  Afterall, I am from the midwest :laugh:

I do need to mention again, the service provided from WM has been by far the best I have seen in any industry.  For Bret to come here today for a simple chip install says a lot!   I guess there are advantages to being close to WM ;D
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Offline seppi

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Re: Biomizer Sawdust Burner
« Reply #124 on: April 02, 2008, 08:54:34 PM »
Kirk, I will inform u with our progress as happens. We have a few kinks in operations & need to T.K.O.B.---- Later. Congrats!!!.