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Author Topic: Blade life  (Read 10798 times)

Offline SDB777

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Blade life
« on: June 13, 2010, 05:10:21 AM »
I realize there are as many answers to the following question, as there are bandsaw mills in operation...but I'd like to know anyway.  This should be viewed as a 'best case scenario'...no nails, screws, or any other wierd things that could possible end their life.

Answers in the form of board feet would be great....

#1: How long do blades last on your mill before they are in need of sharpening?

#2: How long do blades last on your mill before they are in need of changing(no longer useable)?(board feet would be great)

#3: How many times could you sharpen a blade before it is just written off?

#4: What name brand do you use(blades)?

#5: Lastly, what are you using to sharpen your blades?





Scott (sometimes, I need sharpening) B
Just got my website up/running:    www.slabsblanksandboards.com
Where I get 95% of my chainsaw needs:    www.pinnaclearboristsupplies.com/

Offline Kirk Allen

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Re: Blade life
« Reply #1 on: June 13, 2010, 07:47:35 AM »
#1: How long do blades last on your mill before they are in need of sharpening?

All depends on what type of wood your cutting, widths of those cuts, debarker used or not and speed of your cut as in forward motion.  In most cases with most hardwoods I will run about 3-500bf on a blade.  2-300bf with shagbark, Osage, Ash, and white oak. 


#2: How long do blades last on your mill before they are in need of changing(no longer useable)?(board feet would be great)
I have been getting 6-8 sharpenings out of my blades before they finally break.  It was less when I was using the old grinding system from WM but with the new CBN it does a much better job and ensures all the minor cracks are ground out of the gullet etc.  So, between 1800 and 3000 bf on a blade.  Keep in mind the width of cut and hardness of the wood play a huge role, as does you cutting speed.  Before I learned anything I was going through lots of blades because I was going way to slow, meaning the blade was in the cut way to long and going round and round way more than it needed to. 


#3: How many times could you sharpen a blade before it is just written off?
I sharpen until it breaks while cutting!  Normally that will happend around the 8th sharpening, although I think the breakage I see is more from the fact the stress created of going around the band wheels breaks down the metal than it being sharpen to much.


#4: What name brand do you use(blades)?
I have used Munkforsager, Wood Mizer, Simonds, and Laguna carbide.  I stick with the Wood Mizer as I think overall they have lasted the best. 


#5: Lastly, what are you using to sharpen your blades?
I use the Wood Mizer CBN system. 
http://www.woodmizerblades.com/maintenance/sharpenerSetter.aspx
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Offline SDB777

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Re: Blade life
« Reply #2 on: June 14, 2010, 06:31:21 PM »
Didn't realize you guys went through blades that quickly....
So you must have a ton of blades stored up somewhere?

3K board feet and their through...ouch!  Seems like an awful short life-span for a blade...


One other question:

Is the wood 'green' when your cutting, and would it make a difference if the wood was air-dried?(As in, I cut mostly spalted wood, and you hardly ever find a green, growing tree with spalting in it)


Scott (maybe my chainsaw is a better option for me still) B
Just got my website up/running:    www.slabsblanksandboards.com
Where I get 95% of my chainsaw needs:    www.pinnaclearboristsupplies.com/

Offline Kirk Allen

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Re: Blade life
« Reply #3 on: June 14, 2010, 06:54:34 PM »
Blades are only $20 so 3K worth of lumber is fairly cheap. 

Grean wood is always easier to cut.  Dried wood eats blades faster.
Integrity is doing the right thing when no one is watching!

Offline SDB777

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Re: Blade life
« Reply #4 on: June 14, 2010, 07:55:30 PM »
Blades are only $20 so 3K worth of lumber is fairly cheap. 

Grean wood is always easier to cut.  Dried wood eats blades faster.


That wasn't the warm fuzzy words I was hoping to hear...as I do mostly the dried wood stuff.


Scott (unless I can 'make it' spalt after) B
Just got my website up/running:    www.slabsblanksandboards.com
Where I get 95% of my chainsaw needs:    www.pinnaclearboristsupplies.com/

Offline Stevem

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Re: Blade life
« Reply #5 on: June 15, 2010, 11:54:54 AM »
However,

If your cutting say 36" logs, the center (most of the tree) should be green.  Large trees take a looooonnnng time to dry.   
Stevem
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