Author Topic: sharpen & setter? (Read 21107 times)

mike p · « **on:** March 26, 2011, 02:15:37 PM »

so i have heard it recomened both option 1 & option 2
so how do each of us tackle this job
im a option 4 but getting a setter soon as i have several mills around here that dont sharpen there own

Kirk Allen · « **Reply #1 on:** March 26, 2011, 10:09:49 PM »

I sharpen then set. Works fine.

SDB777 · « **Reply #2 on:** March 27, 2011, 06:37:17 AM »

Still saving my change for a mill.....

But I'm interested! Eventually I'll have to know which is the best method, living on a budget means I'll need to learn to do my our sharpening.

Scott (keepin' an eye on this) B

HaroldCR - AKA Fla.-Deadheader · « **Reply #3 on:** March 27, 2011, 08:44:38 AM »

My post never showed up ?? I voted set then sharpen. I would sharpen 3 times, then set before sharpening.

I believe the steel in the blade has everything to do with maintaining a good cut.

Sawing/poolman · « **Reply #4 on:** March 28, 2011, 06:37:54 PM »

http://www.harborfreight.com/4-inch-diamond-blade-95315.html Mike try this link for the 1/2 inch arbor 4" diamond blade.It fits the Kasco manual sharpener.The Item # is 95315. Its 5 dollars and it works great for me. good luck , Brian McGowan

SDB777 · « **Reply #5 on:** March 29, 2011, 07:28:45 AM »

Didn't want to vote...as I don't know. But I'd like to see the results....when does the poll end?

Scott (I'd just mess things up) B

HaroldCR - AKA Fla.-Deadheader · « **Reply #6 on:** March 29, 2011, 08:24:48 AM »

Sawing/Poolman
How do you use that HF wheel to gum out the gullets ??

Do you even grind the gullets ??

I'm not familiar with the sharpener you use, just very curious. Thanks

Sawing/poolman · « **Reply #7 on:** March 29, 2011, 03:59:16 PM »

Harold its easy on my grinder.Yours might be different and not be helpful for Your sharpener.I can set my depth of grind and my angle ,to grind the full tooth.Yes i grind the full depth of the tooth.I adjust a wingnut against another nut for depth.I adjust two wingnuts in sliding slots for angle.Like I said it works on a Kasco manual sharpener but I dont know others that it works on.Maybe later i will post pics. Brian

HaroldCR - AKA Fla.-Deadheader · « **Reply #8 on:** March 29, 2011, 04:08:55 PM »

I used a WoodMizer automatic sharpener. Just didn't know if that wheel was stiff enough to go sideways in the gullet.

I have an older WM Manual sharpener here, that I need to make the automatic feeder and profile cam. Thanks, Brian

mike p · « **Reply #9 on:** March 29, 2011, 05:09:02 PM »

so i read that if you sharpen then set the setter can be off due to a bur from the grinder wheel

Kirk Allen · « **Reply #10 on:** March 29, 2011, 05:59:28 PM »

knock the bur off with a rasp and all is good!

mike p · « **Reply #11 on:** March 29, 2011, 06:03:33 PM »

Quote from: Sawing/poolman on March 28, 2011, 06:37:54 PM

http://www.harborfreight.com/4-inch-diamond-blade-95315.html Mike try this link for the 1/2 inch arbor 4" diamond blade.It fits the Kasco manual sharpener.The Item # is 95315. Its 5 dollars and it works great for me. good luck , Brian McGowan

well i checked mine it takes 5/8 hole & 6" wheel . so i plan to go by HF store & look over what they have , would like to go to a diamond wheel.

mike p · « **Reply #12 on:** March 29, 2011, 06:04:10 PM »

Quote from: Kirk Allen on March 29, 2011, 05:59:28 PM

knock the bur off with a rasp and all is good!

so do you have to rasp your bands

HaroldCR - AKA Fla.-Deadheader · « **Reply #13 on:** March 29, 2011, 06:06:37 PM »

Why bother rasping ?? The wood will take off that burr in short order.

If one tooth has the burr, they all should, right ??

mike p · « **Reply #14 on:** March 29, 2011, 06:26:53 PM »

so my ? was is the setter off on one side due to a bur from the grinder wheel?
i read about this but havent seen it as a problem myself

Kirk Allen · « **Reply #15 on:** March 29, 2011, 08:34:57 PM »

It has not been a problem. The bur is less than .004 and yes, the wood knocks it off when cutting.

Sawing/poolman · « **Reply #16 on:** March 29, 2011, 08:42:35 PM »

Mike before I used the grinding blade with 1/2 inch arbor I used a wet tile saw blade continuous rim 5/8 arbor.I used an adapter bushing from a cheap hand held grinder.I sharpened hundreds of bands with wet tile saw blades using them dry.I told the guys at coleman supply it worked ok.Well I was always crazy in my testing of things,but it worked. Brian

Kirk Allen · « **Reply #17 on:** March 29, 2011, 10:29:01 PM »

sawing/poolman I think its guys like you that make this country run! If it works dont mess with it! Great info!

mike p · « **Reply #18 on:** March 30, 2011, 06:36:33 AM »

Quote from: Sawing/poolman on March 29, 2011, 08:42:35 PM

Mike before I used the grinding blade with 1/2 inch arbor I used a wet tile saw blade continuous rim 5/8 arbor.I used an adapter bushing from a cheap hand held grinder.I sharpened hundreds of bands with wet tile saw blades using them dry.I told the guys at coleman supply it worked ok.Well I was always crazy in my testing of things,but it worked. Brian

thanks ill try one of those as my white stone gos away verry quickly
sometimes in one pass it has gone down enough to need adjusting

John Bartley · « **Reply #19 on:** April 04, 2011, 01:11:14 PM »

I clean first. That way the "set" is accurate and the grinding stone doesn't burn the tooth. Then I set, followed by sharpening. Sharpening after setting leaves a nicely squared tooth face with a sharp point at the outer edge. I usually find when setting that I don't always have to correct a tooth, but I always check them because it only take s a little bit of time, and the results are worth the effort.

cheers

John

HaroldCR - AKA Fla.-Deadheader · « **Reply #20 on:** April 04, 2011, 01:42:47 PM »

John Bartley has it pretty well covered. I would like to add one other thing. We ALWAYS carried a can or two of WD40. When you take the blade off the mill, it "Should" be relatively clean, or, at least, wet-damp.

Spray a little WD on both sides of the blade and use a rag dampened with WD, to wipe the blade down. We always carried the original shipping boxes (Cardboard), and coiled the blades and put them in the box(es).

Then, when you are ready to sharpen, the blades are clean and rust free.

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so how do each of us tackle this job

Author Topic: sharpen & setter? (Read 21107 times)