First thing is, What species do y'all saw mostly ??
From my experience, I set to .022 or 22 thousandths. That's a good average. As you sharpen, you get down to .020. Second, maybe, or, for sure third sharpen, after setting. IF you set first, you won't get a "Bad" set, from the burr left from the grind.
On Real sappy wood, I go up to .025 or 25 thousandths. That's pretty wide set and might spill some excess dust. I also use a little more water on the wider set, to help keep the blade cooler from dragging through the dust.
Second, with enough blades, you can keep hardwood blades separate from the softwood blades, if you cut both types of wood. Don't need but a few put aside.
You need to turn the blade inside out, if you use a single tooth setter. Set the teeth, then, turn the blade right side out and set again. THEN sharpen. If you don't have the magnet set up, just start at the weld OR mark a spot with a piece of soapstone, welders marker .
I always try to do the blades that pretty well match in tooth height. As you get experience, you can see that at a quick glance. That way, you avoid constantly changing stone wheel height-depth.
Is the wheel set at the correct face angle ?? I set mine at 10°. That's 10° LESS than 90°, as the stone passes the face of the tooth, so it, slightly undercuts the tooth, as it drops down into the gullet.
I would adjust the blade advance rod, so, the wheel just barely touched the tooth, as it dropped into the gullet, and, just barely touched the gullet and back of the tooth as it raised back up. If you don't really dull your blades before changing, this might be all you need. If not, just a very fine adjustment, and, you are ready for the final grind. Just inspect with a magnifying glass for small cracks in the gullet. If you can't grind them out without a really deep grind, paint the blade and use it for adjusting the machine when you change stones. BE SURE to get the stone shaping tool and use it regularly, to keep the rounded side of the wheel in top shape.
Do you know how to turn and fold blades, without all the scars taking shape
If not, Google it or watch WM Videos. WEAR GOOD GLOVES, and DO NOT throw the blade to open it.
The other guy may do things differently than I do, so, take that into consideration, and plan to destroy one blade as you start up. The better job you do with Blade maintenance, the better lumber and easier sawing, will keep your interest and maybe add customers. I've seen some really bad lumber come off band mills.
Blade setting or BORRRRING.
Good luck. Harold
